PCT 2018: Days 88-92, Ashland to Crater Lake
Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers days 88-92 from Ashland to Crater Lake, mile 1,700-1,820.
July 31, Day 88
0 miles [1717.7]
Spent the night under a desk which was exactly my size. Slept in until 6 A.M. which counts as late, giving us plenty of time to enjoy a continental breakfast, an event which I usually find scheduled far too early to be useful. Enjoyed a couple hard boiled eggs and a bagel with an atrocious amount of single-serving cream cheese pucks as well as coffee and orange juice just like TV ads say I should. It was a stressful day but I’ve come to expect that from town and resupply missions. The girls took charge on deciphering the public bus system. Two bus rides later we made it to Medford which had a mega shopping center and everything we “needed”. Did Kohl’s first figuring I could spend less. I found a new shirt solution in the Men’s Athletic section for only $30 and said goodbye to my Frakensteinian spirithood creation. Gang had been fantasizing about REI and despite my frugal ethos I gave in with ease, after all, I needed pants. The kind associate took me to the kids section and grabbed a large after I insisted I was currently wearing a 30 and needed something smaller. They fit like a glove and for $50 I had to remind myself it was a necessity. Also picked up a new water filter—goodbye 6 min/L fill times. With most of our gear-related issues addressed, we couldn’t resist the smell of In-N-Out any longer. Cheeseburger, fries, and a Coke was all that I remembered, possibly more. Jimmy called and asked about my winter plans, said he has a room available! I’m stunned and stoked, deciding tomorrow. Got off at the “wrong” Post Office with “Snacks”—who knew there were two? Mailed home some extra trail weight and my thoroughly used pants. Safeway was practically the only option for resupply and it wasn’t ideal, expensive and lacking in variety. “Penguin” and “Trash Queen” planned on buying and sending the rest of their food, Washington included, from here. The smell of stress was palpable but to each their credit they got it done, something I couldn’t imagine Adam and I having planned for back at home. Figured out the bus back to the hotel and decompressed at the hot tub. Cleansed with an entire bag of spinach and the remainder of last night’s ranch wing dip. Almost as busy as a 30-mile day.
Making phone calls.
Shirt, v2.5 will be missed.
August 1, Day 89
23.6 miles [1741.3]
Another restful night under the Comfort Inn and Suites’ desk. The seven of us packed and slowly vacated our now grody smelling room and got breakfast. Shared the herb butter I accidentally bought and spread it on a few English muffins. Knew it was a hiking day and forced down a couple more hard boiled eggs. Gang spent almost an hour trying to hitch out because it was a poor location quite far from the trail and basically on the side of the highway. We split up and eventually “Flipper”, “Froggy”, and I got a hitch from some parents who nervously joked about not being killed. We insisted that any real instrument of harm was likely far too heavy to carry and we were relatively harmless besides our smell. Got dropped off at the trailhead and I called Jimmy back to confirm about winter. Stoked. Sluggish, unmotivated miles, no doubt a side effect from beer and of post-zero blues. Ran into a couple of locals who warned me a large rattlesnake was curled up on the trail. I nodded and smiled because this was clearly another spurious wildlife spotting from untested day-hikers. Sure enough, a few hundred feet up and coiled dead center in the trail in an area littered with downfall was the largest or possibly second-largest rattlesnake I have seen. I didn’t know they could be greener than olives. I extended my pole and gently tried to coax him along which got “Penguin” frantically yelling at me—it was almost more stressful than the snake which had begun rattling—he slithered on. Since lunch was a tuna taco, dinner was cold-soak Ramen and a peanut butter and Oreo dessert taco. Shared a campsite with an older man named “Tequila Jon”, his name seems pretty self-explanatory. Camping at Little Hyatt reservoir and it has the first water which distinctly tastes like pond; not a great place to christen my new filter. Happy August.
August 2 Day 90
25.9 miles [1767.2]
Despite getting good sleep I felt tired for the majority of the day. It was only 26 flattish miles but they seemed difficult, I booked the last four as if it would somehow bring me closer to the end. Took lots of frequent breaks. My apathy weighs more than my pack. I have been thinking a lot about hikers skipping this section due to smoke and fire, which has been improving each day, and it’s shameful to admit it makes me frustrated. We’re out here busting our butts just like any other hiking day, there’s no reason to skip—yet. It’s antagonizing to hear hikers justify their reasoning. Whatever, HYOH, you’re capable of more than you realize. Ignored my rationing mind and nearly finished my Airheads supply and crushed the one Miller I had packed out during lunch. Wandering thoughts turned to Colorado, working on art, and being able to use a kitchen. Water sources have spread out to more than 10-mile carries. Not ideal, it certainly made enjoying the terrain more challenging. “Conflicted” caught back up and it boosted my spirits, his banter provides much needed distraction. Lots of chatter on planned finish dates which makes me anxious. To what degree am I responsible for catching up to Adam to see our parents in Cascade Locks? As much as I want to be done, I love the people I’m with and would gladly go to the border with them. Gang is planning on being at Crater Lake in two days, Adam will certainly not be there but Sam Schoevaars is flying in, “Flipper” said it will be a surprise. I hate deciding. It’s all going to work out.
August 3, Day 91
26.5 miles [1793.7]
Another day where I felt off, this nicotine pen can’t be helping. Today was good, I’m just so tired of hiking. I want a vacation. Walking is my job, it doesn’t seem fun anymore. Perhaps it’s the ongoing lack of big views, there’s too much smoke and trees, we joke about the Green Tunnel and how that must feel. Stressed about leaving the group and making it Cascade Locks on my own. “Penguin” reminded me Washington is 353 miles away and it dawned on me that my parents will arrive in 13 days which means I need to average over 27 miles a day without any zeros to make this “deadline”. My group doesn’t plan on that pace and the longer I hang out the more miles I’ll have to make up. Realized I went through a few of the five stages of grief during today’s hike. There’s no reason to be angry at my folks, even though this will be their third visit. Morning temps were legitimately cold and it was hard to break a sweat. Another tuna lunch and ramen dinner. Ramen is calories at this point, I should probably stop carrying it in favor of better items. Legitimately low on food but perhaps it’s the lack of choice which makes me think this, I probably have day’s worth remaining. More long water carries today and another 20-stretch tomorrow. I need to get back to setting manageable goals, I’m planning too far into the future. A good head-space makes for easy miles.
August 4, Day 92
28.2 miles [1820.9]
Drunk, not in the mood to write. Uninterrupted sleep and an early start where I took the lead, something I never do—it seems like “Froggy” is always first—and enjoyed a clear morning. Easy, flat miles, the thought of arriving at Crater Lake is enough to make anyone keep putting one in front of the other. Had lots of solitary time to think about leaving my trail family. Great lunch break, tuna, of course, in the shade where you needed a jacket but unzipped, we just enjoyed each other's company. Arrived at Mazama Village and celebrated. “Goat Man”, “Dutchie”, and “Trash Queen” were all there and many other hikers I recognized but never met. Picked up my half of our resupply box Adam thoughtfully left me, I even got a nice note too. Bought quite a few $1.60 beers and gang decided to splurge for a meal at the resort restaurant. I had meatloaf, fries, and beans which looked like the most filling, cost-effective option. Under the table, “Flipper” secretly passed around a bottle of Jim from their resupply. Found camp and set up in the dark. Congregated around the hiker campfire and quietly proceeded to spiral out of control. I’m drunk, high, and overwhelmed about how I’m getting to Washington and what that’s going to look like. I feel alone again. I don’t want to leave—but I have to. I can’t afford the zero tomorrow and make consecutive 30’s. Everything will be OK, stop stressing, why worry?
(L-R) “Dutchie”, “Goat Man”, and “Penguin”.
Hike On?
PCT 2018: Days 93-95, Crater Lake to Shelter Cove
Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers days 93-95 from Crater Lake to Shelter Cove, mile 1,820-1,900.
August 5, Day 93
28.5 miles [1848.4 ]
Piss-poor drunken sleep, my mind was completely obsessed with leaving. Woke up in the same thought pattern I had fallen asleep to, like it was the same day. Listened to my own trail register advice which I’ve been writing for nearly two-thousand miles and Committed to packing. Gear on and sunrise breaking, I left a super-lame see-ya-later note for “Flipper & Friends”, then walked back to the restaurant with “Conflicted” for a cup of coffee. “Silver Fox”, a familiar hiker yet I’m unacquainted, paid for our brews; it was a wonderful gesture. About to leave when “Flipper” and Sam—honorarily “Sunburnt”—sat down for breakfast. Talked and hung out as long as possible, snagged a group photo for posterity sake; I can’t believe I know those hooligans from Philmont. Apologized for leaving once again, then “Conflicted” and I began hiking. I knew it was going to be smoky and thought about coming back rather than the marred view. The Lake sprawled much larger than I had imagined, much like my first visit to the Grand Canyon when I was 12—it must be even more incredible on a clear day. Tons of tourists and clean day hikers which was expected, it was fun being an utter bum and attracting looks and conversations about “those PCT hikers”. Took a lunch atop the Watchman and crushed the one beer I decided to carry, that didn’t last long. Cruised around the rim, slowly, it was at our backs. Met a total cutie at the highway water cache who only started yesterday and is planning on going to Washington; I called her “Locks”, maybe it sticks. “Brownstreak” caught up! He’s been behind since Tahoe, and not long after, “Sticky Fingers” showed up, looks like he’s not taking a zero either. Hiked behind “Goat Man” for five miles and talked the whole time about vanlife and taking life after trail to the next level—great guy. A fiery sunset swatting skeeters away. Coerced “Conflicted” into letting me use his stove for my gnocchi meal. “Sticky” gave me a spoonful of cookie butter and now I know what my first hit of heroin feels like. Tonight’s camp has faces I recognize and some I don’t.
“Conflicted” and Wizard Island.
State Highway 138, mile 1847.8.
August 6, Day 94
33.8 miles [1882.2]
Smoky night which turned into a damp and chilly dawn, my quilt had a fair bit of dewy condensation. The five or seven tents which were up last night had already dwindled to three before I was packed, strapped, and moving. It’s odd trailing a group of people “by myself”, but I guess that’s what the majority of hikers have already gone through. In the first mile “Sticky” caught up, he must have been looking for a friend too, and we did the morning-10 together. Had a good laugh beneath the base of Mt. Theilsen—”Stick’s” friend said it was “non-technical” and there couldn’t be a more sinister looking peak in the entire state; certainly Class 3 and above. Lunch with “Stick” and “Streak” where I had a pepperoni roll-up appetizer and tuna taco as a main. Kept a steady pace through meandering hills. Realized I’m going to hit 2,000 miles before Day 100 (what a positively gorgeous reduction) and I can’t stop smiling. Twenty a day is way better than counting chairs in a lift shack for eight hours. Crossed the Oregon high point which felt lackluster after all the trail’s had to offer, a fun milestone nonetheless. I pushed past Windigo dirt road after 6:20 P.M. and did another four, absolutely annihilating nearly 34 today and it feels great. Breakfast for dinner: a House biscuits and gravy, I still have lots of food left—oops, more tomorrow. Ha! Soaring spirits and another note from “Shocks”. Tomorrow, our trails cross.
“Sticky Fingers”.
Cowhorn Mountain, mile ~1878.
Sawtooth Mountain, mile ~1882.
August 7, Day 95
24.9 miles [1907.1]
Great sleep, got the lead out early and crushed 14.3 before 11 A.M. Finding my motivation since leaving Crater Lake has been an easy choice. Abundant water sources saw the vengeful return of mosquitoes which is kinda irksome. “Sticky” caught up to me by the afternoon and we cruised into Shelter Cove before 3 P.M. Despite having plenty of trail sustenance and picking up more, I was weak—like always—to resist real food and we split an absolutely FIRE chicken pesto pizza. I ate way too much, I haven’t hurt that bad since the AYCE buffet back at Harrah's. Waddled over to the lake, it’s gorgeous. Mountains are the purest form of escape but a large, secluded body of water does the trick. I realized kids who grew up in the Midwest and camped at lakes had a unique nature experience all their own, mountains or not. Uncomfortably stuffed my consciousness slipped like Altras on scree, it was warm and a cool breeze wafted through the shade; summer weather perfection. In my digestive haze, I met “Sassy-K” who remarked at my similarity with another hiker, then put it together and interrupted herself to mention that “Shocks” was probably looking for me. Adam is in great spirits and I’m stoked to see him. “Brownsteak” and “Conflicted” rolled in as well and all of us splayed out in the shade punch-drunk on mileage just like it was the Sierra. Everyone traded stories of Oregon-so-far. Decided it would be a rough night at the campground/resort and hoofed it back to the trail just as last light waned. Tipsy, full, and tired, we could have hiked another five but I found a good spot in less than a half-mile and everyone rejoiced. It feels good to hang with these four again.
Crescent Lake.
Breakfast snack.
New pad/old pad.
Chicken pesto pizza.
Hike On?
PCT 2018: Days 96-99, Shelter Cove to Sisters
Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers days 96-99 from Shelter Cove to Sisters, Oregon, mile 1,900-2,000.
August 8, Day 96
31.2 miles [1938.3]
I can’t believe I slept until 6:15 camped next to four other people and still managed to be the first one out of camp. First seven miles ahead, then I took a nice hour-long break at Maiden Peak shelter; I think I waited 30 minutes before “Brownstreak” sat down and ate a thawed microwave-burrito. It felt hard to find or make motivation, yesterday’s diet certainly did not help. Caught wind of trail magic at Charlton Lake and suddenly forgot about my sluggish woes. “Ducky”—2-for-3 on the trails—and his dad were super eccentric and holding court with at least six hikers. There were a pair of ladies, Hannah and “Sparkles” who were much more introverted and manned a grilled cheese station. I was lame and didn’t really chat much with our hosts past the usual profuse thank-yous, everything hurt and all I could see was food. Both parties were beyond well-equipped and more than a dozen hikers sat and ate to their heart’s content. I had two grilled cheese with fresh tomato and pickle toppers, Doritos and choc-chip cookies, plus a Coke and two IPAs. There were Ben and Jerry’s pints(!) but “Sticky” and I were stuffed once again and chose to split a Cherry Garcia. Pack on, waddled out, and found a pace and cranked miles out, passing dozens of scummy ponds between massive meditative lakes. Didn’t see anyone else and only two hikers passed me. Dusk set in and I thought I was behind, the trail was smooth, and I was angsty so I ran the last three in under a half-hour. It got dark and I set up—it’s officially my first night alone. It’s boring, nice, sad; I’m tired and proud. The mosquitoes at this lake are savage but I’m safe in my tent sanctuary just like everyone else.
August 9, Day 97
27.5 miles [1965.8]
All-over, a hard day. Good sleep after 10:30 P.M. once the few other late hikers settled in—looks like I didn’t camp alone after all. It also turned out camping by a lake meant no respite from mosquitoes and I packed in a constant orbit around my camp, never pausing to get bit. Hike was hard despite an easy downhill morning, I think I had strained a few ligaments on the arch of my left foot from last night’s panicked run to catch up. Thought a lot about being behind and how I just managed to reconnect with “Shocks”, I worried about being on my own once again. I thought I beat this? It was a hot afternoon and I found a decent stream in the shade which was a good excuse to wash socks and deduct 12-ounces of beer weight—I chilled it in the stream while scrubbing. Hot afternoon and being sore didn’t help. Turned out I was ahead. “Shocks” caught up and we took lunch, salmon taco, and split my other beer. The last few miles were pretty nice; South Sister is straight up epic and Mt. Jefferson looks dope—I’m ready to ski. Filled up at an extremely milky creek which filtered clear, don’t want to think about what it did to my filter. “Lost Dog” produced a quart-zip stuffed with bud from a trail angel and offered me a handful. Dinner was Velveeta salsa mac, then we set up in the meadow. “Conflicted” and “Sassy-K” said they both struggled; today’s terrain was tough and we all agreed it probably had something to do with the lack of views despite the last few spectacular miles. Out of spare power and it’s stressful, but it’ll work out. Less than 40 away from the 2K milestone—in under 100 days!
August 10, Day 98
30.1 miles [1995.1]
I must have set up on a queen mattress; the meadow grass and cold, wet air made for a glorious night of sleep. Another challenging day but the views more than made up for it; sparse, tortured trees, expansive meadows, streams and rocks, I would hike Oregon again for this stretch alone. Took a lengthy break at Sister Spring. “Conflicted” was a constant stream of gender pronoun jokes and I was nearly brought to tears with laughter; the best kind of breaks. Obsidian Falls was a nice surprise. Arrived at McKenzie Pass later in the afternoon and found a magic cache which had Doritos, Coke, and the juiciest, best peach of the entire season. Spotted “Coppertone’s” tell-tale RV and got a root beer float and took a nice sit. Nobody was stoked to figure out there were 13 more through some treacherous lava fields for a reliable camp. Found the courage to leave and struggled the entire time, each step pinched and stabbed, sharp rocks tenderized my poor feet, I would have rather walked through a pit of gnashing crocodiles. Rewarded, almost on a spiritual level, with a fiery sunset who’s rusted hues from smoke backlit ghostly, bone-white trees. It might well have been Mars. “Brownstreak” and “Shocks” caught up and we stumbled into Big Lake Youth Camp as the last bit of light vanished. I was immediately reminded of Philmont, all summer camps have a similar vibe: cute overall map, dining hall and meal hours, and someone who invariably exclaims “Hi, welcome to camp!” in a cheery and effervescent tone which borders too closely on psychosis. Directed to the “hiker area” and “Shocks” and I settled on a beach outcropping with a volleyball net. The sand feels great but I know everything will be soaked tomorrow morning. Oh well.
Mount Washington Wilderness and the Three Sisters.
North and Middle Sister.
Big Lake Youth Camp by stars.
August 11, Day 99
9.7 miles [2002.3]
As predicted, I woke up soggy on the volleyball sand near the water’s edge, a wall of low fog obscured the opposite bank of Big Lake. Huge windfall to have the hiker hut open a full hour earlier than posted. The shower I scouted yesterday was empty, no towels were hanging up, no one was loitering; I snagged the first one. Split a load of laundry, fueled up on coffee, and responded to the renter’s application. Ate at the dining hall and heard the clamoring of rowdy chow-hall kids and could feel myself drifting back to camp. I’m happy where I am but I can’t help but think about another summer, perhaps that’s always going to happen. Untoasted bagels two-ways; butter and tomato, then cream cheese and raspberry jelly followed by fresh strawberries and watermelon chunks and a side of yogurt made for a complete breakfast. Fully charged and clean, “Streak”, “Shocks”, “Conflicted”, and I headed a measly six miles to Santiam Pass, despite being offered a ride—everyone’s mood seemed to be in a hiking spirit. Crossed mile 2,000! Almost had a difficult hitch into Sisters before a pickup picked us up, I managed to konk out on the highway, wind and hair whipping me deaf in the bed. Hitch took us two miles too far which was stressful for “Conflicted” and I let him wind me up, plus it had been a few hours and miles since anyone had eaten. Found a lunch spot and had a chicken-bacon-brioche number with a 10-outta-10 habanero hot sauce (Aardvarks) and waffle fries. Used their free wifi and refilled my podcast feed. Temporarily sated, we made our last resupply for Oregon. Managed to reconnect with Sam Anderson and also got a surprise call from Pete Bergene. Hard hitch back to trail but I know now it always works out, easy to remember two beers deep dancing with my thumb outstretched on the side of a highway on a warm summer’s night.
“Brownstreak” and “Conflicted”.
Hike On?
PCT 2018: Days 100-104, Sisters to Cascade Locks
Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers days 100-104 from Sisters to Cascade Locks, mile 2,000-2,150.
August 12, Day 100
30.6 miles [2032.9]
Hard 30, quilt soaked for the second day in a row. Had a nice 360-degree view about six miles up, then took breakfast which was a peanut butter and bacon roll-up. Admired Three Fingered Jack. Spent a lot of the day in burned areas which is an odd mix of barrenness and austerity. Dried gear out at Rockpile lake during lunch. “Streak” was preparing for his 24-hour Challenge (read: napping, eating, and hydrating until dusk). “Horny Toad” was also there and recognized me from Hikertown back in the Mojave. Mount Jefferson peeked into view most of the day, eventually the trail opened up enough for a relaxed study. Nice break at Shale Lake with a few Polish hikers who I had been leapfrogging every week or so since Etna. We hung out and snacked—what a cool bunch. “Panda” caught up to us later in the afternoon. Saw a dead horse in the river, bloated and gray on the verge of bursting, thank God for nanofiber membranes. Finished the day cold and tired, must have botched my calorie intake. I was in decent spirits but I’ve realized “Shocks” likes to sleep in a little later and hike past dusk. Hungry, tired, and dark, we stopped at 8:45 P.M., but I guess if I don’t like it I can stop whenever I want and catch up in the morning. Had dinner in my tent: tuna taco and a Fireball chaser. Didn’t give much thought to Day 100. Remember, keep being awake. As the Avett Brothers sing, “it’s happening, right now to you.”
Mount Jefferson.
Three Fingered Jack
August 13, Day 101
31.7 miles [2064.6]
A few miles of incline to reach the top of Mt. Hood Wilderness and a first proper look at the monstrosity. Felt the urge to summit, perhaps one day. Fairly flat ten miles to Ollalie Lake where I had a relaxing hour-long snack break. An Illinois man by the name of “Slide” bought me a coffee since I was out of bills—such a nice gesture. Saw “Panda” as well and finally shook hands and met “MacGuyver (Boy)”, just as interesting as his penned name suggested. Listened to podcasts for most of the day and had a few quiet snack breaks to myself. Passed by ponds, streams, rivers, and lakes, they all looked the same. Had a good sit in a field of purple poodle-dog-esque flowers. Leapfrogged “Conflicted” quite a bit, he’s 24-ing all the way to Timberline, what a man. Kept dreaming about the buffet, the Guthook comments only entice me further. Met a section hiker named “Biscuit” at the end of the day and she set up camp beside “Shocks” and me. During diner conversation she elaborated on the finer points when one forages for mushrooms and crystals, an interesting person to say the least. I rolled my first joint in years and shared with “Shocks”, it was all loosey-goosey and bent. I need to figure out winter housing but there’s not much I can do. Sure hope it works.
Mount Hood.
August 14, Day 102
32.3 miles [2096.9]
First one to leave, thankful for the lack of bugs. Haven’t seen too many in the past few days, perhaps it’s because of the prolonged smoke. Took an early lunch/late breakfast at Little Crater Lake; peanut butter and GORP taco with wasabi soy almonds that “Conflicted” turned me on to. Tons of tourists, even a school bus’s worth of elementary school kids found their way to the small attraction. The adults in the group knew we were thru-hikers and told the kids. Most made a shocked face once they understood except for one kid who looked disgusted and sour, I cackled like a hyena—not a thru-hiker. Highway 26 had a little magic. Marilyn was all out of beef patties but had a veggie remaining. I figured enough charcoal, onions, mustard, and raw mileage could make any burger taste bovine. Potato salad was an added indulgence. A fair bit of fear-mongering for the last few miles into Timberline but the sandy terrain turned out not to be as bad as let on. In fact, the view more than made up for it; Mount Hood is incredible. Stupid-huge. Rolled my fourth joint in years (they’re getting better) and shared with “Panda” and “Shocks”. “Streak” left a note detailing his 24-hour Challenge results and physical condition. I knew he had it in him, but over 70 miles with a pack is crazy. Pulled into Timberline and spotted “Conflicted’s” tent. Tons of SoBos floating around the lodge and area. Called mom and she’s sending our next resupply, they are flying out tomorrow. Upon crawling into my tent, “Shocks” informed me we just did 96 miles in three days—bang bang! Got some new blisters which serve as a reminder of how good healthy feet can be. Still stoked on brunch.
August 15, Day 103
21.8 miles [2118.7]
Woke naturally around 6:30 A.M. and saw the hazy sunrise over one of Hood’s massive ridges. Packed and headed for the hotel lobby. Part of me was hoping the interior looked like The Shining but it was completely unique all its own, I should have snagged some photos but I was too preoccupied with eating followed by an immediate food coma. Piled my plate high with scrambled eggs, fresh croissants, greasy sausage patties and hot biscuits with gravy, juicy watermelon, and an ice-cold berry medley smoothie. “Conflicted” was feeling proud of his 24 Challenge and decided to have the buffet for a second day in a row. Did as much damage as I could, then utilized the WiFi and comfy lounge area while digesting to catch up on internet life. Got a promising email and phone call for winter housing. “Shocks” was better at escaping the vortex and left, “Conflicted” and I took a little longer to vacate. Headed out under the glory of Mount Hood. The haze obscured the peak somewhat but enough to truly recognize its beastly size. Saw some skiers heading for a lift and even a few distant ones making turns which practically gave me vertigo; skiing in the second week of August is weird, unnatural. Out of dabs, I rolled another joint and made slow time. A day-hiker who was returning from Ramona Falls saw me and assumed I was in need of a morale boost—perhaps it was my resting exhalation face—and gave me an overly excited “You’re almost at the falls!” to which I replied, “Nice, how far to Canada?” and her friends all exploded with laughter. The Falls were a lovely detour. Struggled through a tough 1,500 foot climb a few miles before camp and didn’t play the snack game well late in the afternoon on account of brunch. Border is close.
August 16, Day 104
28.1 miles [2146.8]
Waked and baked with my newfound rolling skills. Easy enough elevation gain and loss, but tough, jagged trails made for frustrating progress. Famed Eagle Creek alternate was closed and we missed the waterfall giving me yet another reason to return. Good snack break on Wahtum Lake, new favorite candy item are ginger-lemon gummies. I saw a few crayfish and was admiring nature so much I picked one up and was promptly pinched, let out a good squeal. I think I could’ve harvested a half-dozen for a cook-up. Met a hiker who immediately got into the “where did you start?” conversation and shared that she skipped a few hundred because of the smoke and wasn’t feeling guilty in the least. I smiled politely and nodded my head reassuringly in a hike-your-own-hike fashion but I can’t understand why people feel compelled to share those details. Now I know you skipped, you know you skipped, does it make you feel better? I guess it comes out easier when you think about it all day. Most of my afternoon thoughts revolved around leaving Oregon. Hiked until 6 P.M. and our parents met us just before Bridge of the Gods. Saw “Power Mode” at the bridge’s toll booth admiring another state completed, I haven’t seen her since around mile 300. It felt like California took a lifetime to finish, it’s hard to contend with another border crossing so soon—I was just at Crater Lake. Parents understand the game by now and we promptly found a pizza joint. “Conflicted” joined us and filled the entire conversation per usual (thank God). Two large pizzas and a salad disappeared. Drove to Vancouver, WA for the hotel. Shower and laundry. Parents are glowing but I’m already getting antsy. We did 350 miles in 13 days and I can’t help but feel like I missed something.
Bridge of the Gods, Oregon.
Hike On?
PCT 2018: Days 105-106 Cascade Locks and PCT Days
Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers days 105-106, Cascade Locks, Oregon and PCT Days.
August 17, Day 105
0 miles [2146.8]
First time in my life I was up at the same time as dad in a hotel room. We went to the continental breakfast and had a nice conversation about winter living, moving, and possible future trails. Went to Multnomah Falls, it was slam-packed—a big tourist attraction—pavement everywhere, and felt busier than Yosemite in late June. Picked up a resupply at Grocery Outlet and Dollar Store. I was fairly stressed, too much coffee didn’t help, and the stores were vibrating with a raucous din. Got the essentials and repackaged. Made a detour by Bonneville hatchery and saw Smart-car-sized sturgeon. Remembered what Rinella said about anadromous and catadromous fish types, something I never would have retained in school. Swung by PCT Days for an hour and a half, there was simultaneously a lot and nothing going on, plenty of expensive gear I shouldn’t buy. Had a pint at Thunder Island and a smoked salmon spread, a reminder that tuna tacos still leave much to be desired. Checked into the hotel and went out for BBQ dinner which was bar none and hands down the best any of us had had in recent memory. Parents bought us our own room tonight. Smoked one and only joint with “Shocks”, then watched Oceans 11 and Rush Hour until well past hiker midnight. Anxiety into alleviation.
Multnomah Falls during a very busy time of year.
August 18, Day 106
4 miles [2146.8]
Today was a whirlwind of fun, I’m so glad we turned back! Another hotel continental breakfast and good conversation with fam. Packed up and drove back to Bridge of the Gods and our parents walked across with us. It’s always hard to hit the trail after a zero. Warm, humid, and with everything freshly washed, we began hiking. Got about two miles out and received two phone notifications from friends in town. Bruce was visiting and Mitchy had somehow caught up. Sat on the side of the trail fraught with indecision to keep hiking or turn around, I think we were both looking for the other to make the move. I’ll give credit to “Shocks”, we turned back and it was such a monumentally great decision. Hung out with Bruce, got free Alehouse pizza and a $2 PBR with all the other hikers who made it for Trail Days. Saw tons of acquaintances and friends including “Panda”, Darby (who informed me she accepted my offering as “Dirty” for a name), Mitchy, “Conflicted”, “Sticky”, and “Dutchie” who had miraculously received my pen parts and delivered them to me, huzzah. Drank all day, even the brewery was giving out free pints for hikers. Bought a salad and more beer for my last snack of the day. Sunset on the Columbia River was fantastic and I took my camera out until dusk. There must be 500 tents set up on the island. Going to be a hard night of sleep, but no regrets at all. A great ending to a first double-zero.
The world’s happiest pooch.
“Odin”, a US veteran.
“Sassy-K, Inchworm Sr.”
Sunset over the Columbia River, Cascade Locks.
Hike On?
About the Blog
Justin Kernes is a photographer and writer who thrives in the great outdoors.
From 2010-2017, he worked in the backcountry at Philmont Scout Ranch in New Mexico.
In 2018 “Tiny Slice” successfully thru-hiked the Pacific Crest Trail.
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