PCT 2018: Days 53-56, Tuolumne Meadows to Sonora Pass
Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers days 53-56 from Tuolumne Meadows to Sonora Pass, mile 942-1,020.
June 26, Day 53
20.3 miles [962.8]
Unsurprisingly, I woke to hikers ‘quietly’ retrieving their smellables from the bear lockers. Read a few pages of Desert Solitaire before poking my head out and confirming “Trash Bath” and “Sticky Fingers” had made good on their promise to sunrise Cloud’s Rest; their tents were empty. Packed up and headed down to the post office and grill. Got two cups of coffee which had me buzzing. In typical fashion, just before 8 A.M., garbage trucks rumbled through the valley, dumpsters were being violently emptied—Welcome to Yosemite. Even though I had been there less than a full day, being steeped in the huddled masses of one of the most popular National Parks has started to bum me out. A van of Euro hippies which had parked next to the tables opened all their doors and musical instruments started appearing. About twelve seconds into the free-form pan flute session harmonized by a banal conversation from some try-too-hard Instagram model types sitting adjacent, “Shocks” and I decided to leave. Cruised through a few miles of open, lush meadows before taking a long lunch with “Combo”. Five, ten, fifteen, the miles melted. Took a bird bath at Miller Lake, mainly for my feet and pits. Struggled to cross Matterhorn Creek and made it half mile more before calling it quits. Nearly two decades of Scouting beat into me to never, under any circumstances, have food in, near, or around one’s tent for fear a bear would be attracted and attack. However, I am so fed up with mosquitoes, I welcome the possible grisly encounter and ate dinner in my tent with only a shrill, unyielding whine penetrating the glorious mesh. Suckers.
Cathedral Peak from Soda Springs.
Unique color and corrosion of Soda Springs.
A hiker suns herself beneath Tuolumne Falls.
Mosquitoes which made it under the rain fly.
Tuna taco with wasabi peas and chili cheese Fritos.
June 27, Day 54
19.5 miles [982.3]
Blessed to have only a singular mosquito bum-rush me during my AM BM, after which any portion of flesh was in critical danger. Disassembled my tent while attempting to move at two miles an hour. Rolling start out of camp only to be stopped by a ranger, my first, who in predictable fashion asked to see my permit only after the briefest of greetings. “Can you fit all your food in your bear canister?” she asked, groping my pack for a rigid and dense confirmation. I nodded enthusiastically, handing her my permit with a mouth full of Poptarts, a bag of Cheez-its prominently strapped to the outside of my pack, silently thinking if I continued to eat at double my current input, yes. Hiked mostly alone much like yesterday, I feel utterly zonked. Walking all day is the hardest easy thing I’ve ever done. There’s a certain calming quality in the gorgeous monotony. Benson Pass proved to be a breeze but Seavey Pass was seriously steep. Dusk soon arrived and I set up camp didn't have much to say. Annihilated a tuna taco and somewhere around the fourth bite, had an out of body epiphany: mayo is king. The delectable, savory spread makes any dry packet of tuna taste luxurious. Much like any addiction I can’t imagine life sans substance. How do people survive on ramen and instant potatoes? I don’t think I’ll ever understand the mayonnaise haters. Killed the remainder of the wine while enjoying another night safe in my tent. Kennedy Meadows North is in 38 miles but I’m looking forward to tonight’s sleep more.
Wave clouds.
June 28, Day 55
23.6 miles [1005.9]
I should be elated, I should be proud. This afternoon I crossed the 1,000 mile marker, a new significant figure has been added to my trail log. But there wasn’t anyone around to celebrate with. As I got out my camera and wondered how I was going to take a photo of me and the ground simultaneously, fortunately “Combo” showed up and was a great human tripod, but he seemed to be in a real hurry (probably the skeeters) and bolted after snapping a photo for his own memories. Didn’t see anyone I recognized for the rest of the day, I just kept leapfrogging the same pair of vaguely international women who don’t seem to enjoy sharing the English language. Set up my tent while looking over my shoulder like an addled, twitchy squirrel, hoping and praying to see any member of my trail fam come into camp; no such luck. It took 55 days and finally it’s my first night ‘alone’. That fact bums me out even further. To top it off, most of my days are spent tuning out the drudgery of putting one in front of the other. Each day seems so long, each hour seems to be another brutal reminder that I didn’t even make it another three miles since the last hour. There’s a small chance I’m behind, my plan is to get moving an hour before we normally depart. Either way, I’m sure I’ll see someone before the highway. While filling water to cut down on tomorrow's morning chores, I misread the ground and sunk to my ankle in mud. I had to curl my toes to keep the shoe from being slurped up like a tender baby back rib. Washed it in the creek, there’s nothing better than starting the morning off with wet feet.
June 29, Day 56
14.8 miles [1020.7]
Of course my shoe froze, that novelty quickly thawed. But you know what? THIS smart guy snuggled with his water filter all night. Not learning that lesson twice. Crammed my shoe into a spare Ziploc and stuffed the whole mess into my puffy while I packed up everything inside my tent. Raced out of camp in efforts to ditch the nagging demons telling me I was behind. Had over ten miles worth of intrusive thoughts, loneliness being the main culprit despite passing and being passed by a dozen other hikers. Met “Captain” who remarked on my similar looks to another hiker he had just seen and I asked if he had met a “Shocks” or a “Trash Bath”. He told me I was about four miles ahead. I strolled down to the highway and snagged a beer from the parking lot magic and waited for my tramily to appear. Watched seven people to squeeze into a mini trailer, later I found out there wasn’t even tailgate. Gang showed up and we caught a ride into Kennedy Meadows North from a gentleman shuttling hikers for the afternoon. Arrived at the meadows and promptly bought a six pack, convincing “Combo” and “Shocks” to split a load of laundry with me. Ravaged a cheeseburger during the rinse cycle. Whole crew is back, I feel like an utter fool for having been so bummed. Scavenged a decent resupply from the convenience store before packing up one last time and heading out to the road. Hitching was getting tough—it was 6 P.M.—most of the tourists using the secluded road had already headed home. As the occasional car went by, everyone stood up and threw out thumbs smiling as hard as possible. With each missed opportunity my morale kept getting goofier; positivity attracts vehicles. A Mercedes Sprinter van zoomed by with no indication of slowing. “Sorry, we have TOO much space!” I yelled in my most sardonic tone to the exhaust fumes, the gang chuckled as they sat back down. Not thirty seconds later, much to everyone’s surprise, the Sprinter van came back and offered to help. I was absolutely stunned. The eight of us criss-cross-apple-sauced our limbs and gear into the rear and I politely handed the driver my camera while he pulled out his phone for the same purpose. “We haven’t seen this many people in the back of a van since India” he said with amusement, snapping our photo. The doors slammed and we rocketed off onto windy Highway 108. We screamed through tight corners and steep drop offs while our two intrepid chauffeurs told us plans of a second attempt at a Rainier summit. In some turns, I swore I could feel the back tires beginning to break. Said a few prayers and fortunately we arrived back at Sonora Pass. Made it a few miles up trail and set up camp. Happy to have lived, happy to be alive; remember that.
Deadman Creek.
Emigrant Wilderness, Stanislaus National Forest.
Burgers and beers with restorative powers.
The hitch that almost never happened.
Hike On?
European Family Vacation Extravaganza, pt. 2
Towards the end of the 2017 summer the Kernes family took a vacation around Europe. Part 2 takes place during a 10-day cruise around the Mediterranean.
Family Vacation
Family Vacation 2017 - pt. 2
Towards the end of the 2017 summer the Kernes family took a vacation around Europe. Part 2 takes place during a 10-day cruise around the Mediterranean.
Steven, Amy, Justin, and Adam on the island of Santorini, Greece.
Messina, Italy
Saturday, September 2
My day started on the helipad as our ship pulled into the port of Messina. Blinded by early morning light, I tipped back my complimentary mimosa and went to get breakfast. Our tour was through the towns of Taormina and Castelmola, both of which are on the island of Sicily. There was an infamous and picturesque active volcano, Mt. Etna, but it was so hazy, the view from 20 miles away was almost unintelligible. Apparently there's a ski resort on the Southeast face. Bucket list: shred a volcano. The bus driver navigated through narrow stone streets and around petite compacts. If our tour guide had claimed he was a stunt driver on the weekdays, I would have believed her. Castelmola seemed to be straight out of a fairy tale; it was incredible. I stood on some ruins and looked out over the sea, trying to imagine what it would have been like to see invading ships coming for 'my land'. We walked through colorful alleyways constructed hundreds of years ago. Lunch was a real treat—authentic Sicilian pizza. The four of us split three 'zas with a unique highlight being a prosciutto, honey, walnut, and Parmesan pie.
Hang glider over Piazza S.Antonio in Castelmola, Italy.
Valletta, Malta
Sunday, September 3
I bagged another new country today; Malta, just south of Sicily by a couple hundred miles. Our port was in Valletta and we took a ferry to neighboring city, Birgu; one of the many peninsulas on the island. We were scheduled for a informative golf cart tour around the city. Dad was handed the keys and we all given some instruction. Navigating new streets with an entirely different alphabet was little tricky—especially on the right hand side of the road. We all took turns driving and getting out whenever we pleased. It was a great way to see part of this country. Adam found a small stand selling beer by on of the quays. The water was littered with million dollar yachts.
Stone archways in Birgu.
A worn down wooden door.
Maltese locals swimming in The Grand Harbour.
Quiet alleyway in Birgu.
Mykonos, Greece
Tuesday, September 5
Yesterday, we spent a day at sea. I slept late, ate way too much food, and lounged deck-side all afternoon. It left me unprepared for the additional hour gained crossing into another time zone. A small ferry transported us to the main port of Mykonos, Chora to the locals. A city entirely in white engulfed by clear blue waters and sky. It was pushing 100 degrees so Adam and I kept our eyes peeled for places selling beer. Not five minutes of walking around and we were rewarded with a local stout. Greek beer: check. We navigated through stark-white alleyways to find some windmills just off-shore. The entire time, I had my eye on the sea. There weren't many places to access a “beach” but we found a small swath of waterfront with some tourists sunning themselves. I dipped my feet into the Aegean Sea. It felt like the Pacific, but warmer. Expected. Still fun. Adam and I got another beer for the ferry ride back to our ship.
Little Venice, or Mikri Venetia.
Rhodes, Greece
Wednesday, September 6
Today has to have been the hottest day of our entire trip. We disembarked and made our way down the pier. It was easily over 100 degrees on the cobblestone streets. Despite being in a new country, once again, I couldn't help but feel tired and worn-out. Is it possible to vacation too hard? Adam and I split off from Mom and Dad and decided to drink away yesterday's hangover in the shade of a quiet bistro. After cooling down, we took a stroll around the Palace of the Grand Master. Around, because we were unwilling to pay admission fees. We made friends with a chill pigeon and found half of a nude mannequin with an impeccable style.
Mannequin with a raw sense of style.
One of the many fortifications of Rhodes.
Santorini, Greece
Thursday, September 7
Our entire trip, I had been anticipating today—Santorini. We took a ferry ashore, and the entire ride over, stared up at cliffs of desolate volcanic rock. The family opted to take three-minute gondola ride to the top, leaving us in the town of Fira. With hiking shoes laced and water bottles filled, we set off to Oia, a large iconic town at the north end of the main island. A leisurely walk through a quaint town quickly became a strenuous hike out on the exposed island. At nearly seven miles, I was impressed to find Mom and her recently replaced hip keeping up with us boys. Finally, we got to Oia and searched for lunch. Dad picked a restaurant called 218°; the name having to do with an expansive tableside view. We had grilled octopus, fried feta, phyllo-wrapped cheese pockets, Kalamata olives; all dipped in refreshing tzatziki. It's getting hard to distinguish favorite meals. Worn out and full, we caught a charter bus back to Fira. The line for the gondola seemed to be about an hour long. Adam and I decided to ditch the wait, grab a beer, and hike down a steep and slick cobblestone burro path to the waterfront. Ma and Pa beat us back to the ship by 15 minutes, but there is always spare time to scratch some burro ears.
Steve hikes up to see the church of Panagia.
Adam taking the path less traveled to Oia.
Almost at the North end of Santorini. The town of Oia is on the right, island Thirasia on the left.
Typical landscape found in the semi-arid climate of Santorini.
Lunch spread in Oia. Hard to tell if the food or view was better.
Athens, Greece
Friday, September 8
It's the last leg of our trip; we only make port once more before our flight back stateside. Today we had a tour of Athens with only two other couples. At 8AM, our small group made haste for the Acropolis. This was good for two reasons; the day was only going to get hotter and the crowds larger. Five years after a four-year art degree, seeing the Parthenon in person was fulfilling to say the least. After admiring the views, we hopped back in our tour van and headed for The National Archaeological Museum. Apparently, the French President was touring Athens this week as well; traffic was crazy. In the museum, whilst staring at ancient pottery, the President's wife quickly made her way through the same exhibit, flanked by security. Our tour guide didn't seem the least bit phased. We had a much needed lunch break, then it was back sightseeing. We saw the changing of the guard at the Hellenic Parliament; the Panathenaic Stadium, which is made entirely of marble; the Temple of Hephaestus; and ended with the Temple of Olympian Zeus. As we sailed away, we got easily the best sunset of our entire trip. A gorgeous sendoff.
Admiring the Parthenon on a hot summer's day in Athens.
Tourists and locals taking in the Temple of Olympian Zeus.
Looking through the Temple of Hephaestus.
Mediterranean sunsets look better out at sea.
Naples, Italy
Sunday, September 10
Today was our last port city and it couldn't have been nicer in Naples. For the first half of the day, we were scheduled to hike up Mt. Vesuvius. About 3,000 feet of elevation change was no big deal for us avid outdoors people. However, fat tourists abounded. My ego felt great after a quick jump, skip, and hop to the top of the caldera. Views of the Napoli coast were stunning. For the second half of the day, we were scheduled for a tour of Pompeii. For hours, we walked through piles of rubble and partially standing walls. It was hard to follow our guide along and imagine what had once magnificently stood there. Back in town, we 'accidentally' stumbled into a limoncello store. There were three different free samples. It was a sweet sendoff to a sweet trip.
Adam on the trail up to Vesuvius.
The tail end of Italy, where it becomes a 'boot'.
Miss the first half?
European Family Vacation Extravaganza, pt. 1
Towards the end of the 2017 summer, the Kernes family took a vacation around Europe. Part 1 takes place in Florence and Rome Italy.
Family Vacation
Family Vacation 2017 - pt. 1
Towards the end of the 2017 summer, the Kernes family took a vacation around Europe. Part 1 takes place in Florence and Rome Italy.
Steven, Amy, Justin, and Adam on the island of Santorini, Greece.
Florence, Italy
Sunday, August 27
Yesterday, after 20 hours of monotonous travel, the entire Kernes family arrived in Florence, Italy. A glorious and full night of sleep helped erode a sizable amount of jet-lag. Breakfast was a buffet with far too many croissants at the hotel, then it was off to see the Galleria dell'Accademia di Firenze. Of course, the goal was to see "David". It looked better than the slides from art history class. A bonus was a tapestry made in the 14th century which was easily over six feet long. The level of detail was intense and hard to comprehend. On the way out of the museum, I spied a few electrical boxes with some clever street art. 'Scubadore Dali' was my favorite. Lunch was a ham and Fontina panini with a glass of red just a few blocks away from the Galleria. After, we took an electric bike tour of Florence. The sun was setting while we were effortlessly propelled up the hilly streets. Our tour ended with an aperitivo at La Prosciutteria; creamy peppered-Gorgonzola and kalamata tapenade served on fluffy, fresh bread. More red wine. Satisfied, Mom and Dad bid us goodnight and hailed a cab. Adam and I decided to explore and find more food. After walking around for a few hours, we found ourselves across the street from our hotel. A small carnival which had live music, old couples dancing, and cheap food drew us in.
The usual crowd around Michelangelo's "David".
Close up from the tapestry "Coronation of the Virgin", by Jacopo Cambi.
Various works by Blub L'arte sa nuotare.
Biking along the Arno.
Monday, August 28
Our tour of Il Duomo di Firenze, or those looking for more of a mouthful, Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, was first on the day's agenda. Had a quick shower and hotel buffet before our 9AM tour time. Having walked around for a whole day yesterday it wasn't any secret where we were headed. We arrived, met our guide, received our earpieces, and started our three-hour walking tour of the Duomo. For 445 years, this was the largest dome in the world, and today, it is still the largest masonry dome. It was hard to comprehend a project of this magnitude during the age in which it was constructed. After the tour, we had an opportunity to climb to the top. Adam and I were the last two people for the day—we narrowly made it past the velvet rope! From the top was a panoramic view of Florence as well as the Basilica di Santa Croce. We climbed down. By then it was well into the hottest part of the day. Coffee gelato helped to cool us down. Lunch was a sandwich place, I' Girone De' Ghiotti, who's infamous line we spotted wrapping around the block yesterday. It was well worth the wait. Adam and I split a 5 euro bottle of wine and we all walked back to the hotel to power nap. Three-course dinner at a vineyard complete with wine pairings and ample mosquitoes. That was the only complaint we struggled to find.
Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore from across the Arno river.
Light streaming into Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore.
Basilica di Santa Croce seen from atop Il Duomo.
"In accordance with...the criminal code, whomever defaces or soils property of historic or artistic interest by any means, including but not limited to indelible pen, shall be punished by detention of up to one year, or by fine of up to two million lire."
Adam carries the 5 euro wine.
Tuesday, August 29
Rome, Italy
Wednesday, August 30
Upon waking, it was easy to tell it was going to be a hot day. Breakfast options were slim and expensive so the family decided to chance it and head out early. Today's tour was of the Colosseum; we banked on finding street vendors around the area. Our patience was rewarded with a three euro caprese-style panini. The tour was extremely thorough and went on a little longer than expected. We were left tuckered out having walked around in the 95 degree sun all morning. Everyone decided it was a good time to go back to the hotel for a siesta. Dinner was a planned event that was unfortunately canceled an hour before we were supposed to go. Dad scrambled and did some intense Google searching. We ended up at Osteria 44 which turned out to be my favorite dining experience of the vacation so far. Sergio, our waiter, made the whole night even better with his dry wit and excellent recommendations. We all shared several dishes. Ravioli with shrimp and asparagus, as well as a classic carbonara were our entrees. Osso buco with roasted potatoes and green beans, and sea bass with some sort of spicy creamed spinach were our secondi . Everything was an 11/10. As a family, we wined, dined, and laughed for the whole two hours—a rarity. Dad didn't stop there. It just so happened the highest rated gelateria was a small detour on our walk home. I went with my usual selection of coffee.
Colosseum exterior cross section.
Colosseum interior.
A street in Rome.
Thursday, August 31
Today we had a tour of the Vatican City State. We decided to play on yesterday's luck and leave early in search of breakfast. Once again, we scored and found a quaint cafe. I had a smoked salmon sandwich with arugula and tomato, crust neatly removed, and a cappuccino. The coffee was a transformative experience; more so than coffee usually is. We finished and met up with our tour group outside the city walls. “Customs” was pretty easy. We were through the line in minutes. Unfortunately, we also walked through the expansive museums far too quickly. There was easily enough art to look at for several weeks. Our tour guide seemed to know this as well and tried to cram in as much as possible. The size and grandeur was hard to process. Gold, frescoes, multi-colored marble patterns, statues, every square inch was adorned and bespoke with a level of ostentation I didn't even know was possible. And then we went to Saint Peter's Basilica. For a second, I forgot how hot and humid it had been. The Sistine Chapel was an absolute zoo. Hundreds of people, ourselves included, had their necks cranked upward at the magnificent ceiling. My neck was sore. Our tour ended and we decided to wait out the hottest part of the day in our hotel rooms. At 3PM, we were scheduled for a more relaxing golf cart tour of Rome. We puttered past the Colosseum, Circus Maximus, and the Parthenon. We were dropped off at Saltimbocca for dinner. Meal highlight was a smoked provola and speck pizza. And you best believe we stopped for gelato on our way home.
Vatican artworks and frescos. Most importantly far right; "The School of Athens", by Raphael.
Busy crosswalk at the Colosseum.
Businessman texting outside the Colosseum.
A view across the Circus Maximus.
Sunlight against a brick wall at Giardino degli Aranci (The Orange Garden).
Saint Peter's Basilica as seen through Il Buco Della Serratura (keyhole).
Late-afternoon sunlight in the Pantheon.
Wait, there's more!
About the Blog
Justin Kernes is a photographer and writer who thrives in the great outdoors.
From 2010-2017, he worked in the backcountry at Philmont Scout Ranch in New Mexico.
In 2018 “Tiny Slice” successfully thru-hiked the Pacific Crest Trail.
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