Justin Kernes 8/12/19 Justin Kernes 8/12/19

PCT 2018: Days 112-116, White Pass to Snoqualmie Pass

Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers days 112-116 from White Pass to Snoqualmie Pass, mile 2,270-2,390.

August 24, Day 112
~19.5 miles [2295.5]

Not an ideal night. Rough and windy, I was awake for most of 11-2 A.M. hours with a billowing rain fly. Summoned the courage and removed the fly, then took a horrendous dumb under an almost blinding full moon, fully engulfed in a bank of clouds. Managed a little sleep before giving up. Sunrise was completely shrouded by fog and clouds, I couldn’t see ahead of me more than 50 feet except for a brief five-second window. “Shocks” and “Tumbleweed” weren’t lazy (also they were the only ones who camped higher than us) and got a photo, I didn’t even touch my camera. Big shame. Got to Coyote Junction, mile 2278.6, and started down Packwood Lake reroute. It felt like 15 miles of steep descent which took us from 8-1 P.M. Stumbled into the trailhead and got a lucky hitch inside a horse trailer who’s cargo was an ATV, two motorbikes, and two blonde girls also hitching. I think that was the oddest ride so far. Went for coffee and it looked like “Roadrunner”, “AutoPilot”, and “Colonel Sanders” had made it down and shared the same idea. Americano never tasted better. Hitched to White Pass, “Sticky Fingers” and “Brownstreak” showed up. Picked up our resupply box from the Kracker Barrel. “Stick” gave me his vape pen battery, “Tumbleweed” gifted me her concentrate pods, and “Shocks” gave me his headphone dongle! THE TRAIL PROVIDES! Nearby apartment was offering free chili. I washed it down with a microwaved burrito. Picked the trail back up at mile 2294.9 and got about a mile out before setting up camp. Velveeta dinner—the tenth and final portion of that meal—and another beer. Shared camp with “Cray-Nip”. The border is closed and I am thoroughly bummed. I didn’t do this trail for the border alone but I feel horribly cheated if I can’t cross.

August 25, Day 113
28.2 miles [2323.7]

Nearly fell asleep before writing, I think I knocked out from 8-9:30 P.M. (I refuse to miss any entries). Chilly morning, I wore my rain/wind jacket most of the day. Passed by streams, creeks, and ponds of varying hues. About the time when afternoon clouds burned off it began raining and everything became damp and miserable. All my gear is wet, but not soaked, except for my quilt and sleep clothes. I spent a lot of time worrying about the consequences and how I’ll stay warm but I know I’ll learn as I continue. Lunch break at Bumping River and “Sticky” angled with his Tenkara. “Brownstreak” looked tired. Dense fog and mist swaddled me like a comforter made out of depression. Got to Chinook Pass and hunted for a suitable site just as the hypo began to set in. Hastily made camp and hung out in my tent with my remaining dry layers and ate a shit ton in an attempt to warm up. Somewhat concerned about tomorrow since it’s not going to be any warmer or drier. Cross that bridge when you get there. Just. Keep. Moving.

August 26, Day 114
23.3 miles [2347.0]

Very fortunate to have slept warmly. Commanding/summoning the motivation to hike was brutal. It was probably 48 degrees and anything which wasn’t inside my tent was completely soaked. Pulling on wet pants is a depressing way to start anyone’s morning, I wasn’t a happy camper. Squished into my shoes, at least wool socks mitigate the misery. “Shocks” only groaned when I wished him well, he eventually caught up in the afternoon. It threatened to get warm but never actually did. “Sticky” and I hiked together for a while before taking a 20-minute snack break. No one could sit longer or else they were going to get too cold. Kept moving just to keep my body working, it seemed. Drank my only packed beer for the illusion of warmth and happiness. Trudged and trudged until there was a clearing in the fog and I saw the Mike Urich cabin. Comments made it sound like the place would be rife with non-hikers but much to my luck and amazement the tiny ski hut was being run by more than a dozen hikers. Cold, wet, dehydrated to the point of thirst, and in caloric-deficit, I guzzled a liter and crammed a ton of snacks. There was a fire in the wood stove and suddenly the entire room felt very smoky. I felt hot. Went outside on the porch and got fetal (where it was 48 and drizzling) took off my puffy and started breathing like I was a first-time passenger in an overactive F-16. “Miraj”, I’d never met him before, kept an eye on me and brought me water—the hero we all need. Ten minutes later, as rapidly as it had come on, I was back to 95%. “Sticky” was a generous god and gave me a bite of his cinnamon toast and cookie butter sandwich. Inspired, I took the remaining tablespoon of communal butter and bread heels and whipped up a beurre noisette for my grilled cheese. Fat is king. Foggy views through the burn area were ghostly and mysterious. Pure Washington. Going to be challenging to get good sleep but it has to be better than camping out in the wet.

August 27, Day 115
23.8 miles [2370.8]

Not terrible sleep considering claustrophobic cabin circumstances, I only woke up a few times. Took some rips from “Beehive” and “Miraj” gave me an IPA. Ate a few of the remaining communal bars on the table and set off into the dull and dreary world, word was clear skies around noon. Trudged through seven miles of haunting fog and finally it cleared and I saw the sun. Rejuvenating and life-affirming, I felt happy. My soul was warm. Clouds are the best for hiking though, gray mist is good for nothing. Dried my tent out and saw “Brownstreak”. Took lunch at the stream with “Taco” and “Cray-Nip”. Lots of little dirt road crossings today. I wonder how they got there? Wandering thoughts turned to Breckenridge and upcoming photobook. Shared camp with a guy named “Croissant” on one of those nameless and unused roads. I’m certain I lost my beanie yesterday which is a total bummer, I’ve had it since my first summer camp over 15 years ago. I suppose it’s just another material item. Looking forward to Snoqualmie, perhaps I’ll get the pancake breakfast and a hotel/hostel. Tired of hiking but it’s still enjoyable, I just feel depleted. Nearly there. Relaxing evening in the tent.

August 28, Day 116
23.4 miles [2393.2]

Aardvarks “Hurry Curry”, in Snoqualmie; an explosion of nearly-forgotten flavors.

Enjoyable hike which was mostly full of hills. Psyched myself out about some inclines, but overall, very doable. Low on food but I knew about town and resupply. Ran into “Taco” and “Miraj” and we cruised under the lifts and down into Snoqualmie. Found some trail magic just before town. There was a food stand called Aardvark Express which served a very highly regarded “hurry curry”. Ordered one and was thoroughly amazed, so many flavors like long-lost friends I thought I had forgotten: cardamom and cinnamon chicken curry over rice with pineapple cornbread, cilantro, spinach, green apple, and spouts, a one-and-a-half-pound flavor masterpiece. Free Rainier beer to wash it down. Did a stealthy load of laundry at the Inn and emailed my references for housing. Picked up and sorted out resupply, bought beer, and road walked to the Alpine Club. It was an eclectic chalet with local mining and skiing memorabilia strewn about the stone and wooden walls. Very cool except for a skeevy old guy who is the on duty manager of the house, the kind of person who thinks he manages the universe. One of the loquacious and stronger-willed hikers got confrontational later in the evening; being a bum in the woods can have an impact on one’s self-confidence a little too much. Tried to stay clear and took a legit shower with a beer. Electricity and new friends meant we all stayed up late—a flameless campfire. Had a nice chillout with “Cray-nip”, “Doobie”, and “Miraj” outside with good laughs and more Rainier. Midnight snack of fine salami, probably left over from other hikers, I must remember to eat more tomorrow...with eggs.

NoBo ->

<- SoBo

Justin Kernes 8/11/19 Justin Kernes 8/11/19

PCT 2018: Days 117-120, Snoqualmie Pass to Skykomish

Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers days 117-120 from Snoqualmie Pass to Skykomish, mile 2,390-2,465.

August 29, Day 117
10.4 miles [2403.6]

I managed to sleep until 8 A.M. which is pretty good for a bunk bed in a hostel. Brewed coffee and chilled with the gang: “Cray-nip”, “Doobie”, “Taco”, “Miraj”, and “Shocks”. There was a new guy running the place and he inquired about the “situation” last night, hopefully we didn’t ruin anything for the trail community. Chilled hard at the Alpine Club. I made myself a proper breakfast—a buttery and runny three-egg scramble with salami which I deemed communal—a wonderful zen task I haven’t done since I started. Refilled my coffee mug for the second time and was buzzed. Hung out in the rec room and flipped through a photo book on turn-of-the-century logging in the Snoqualmie area, giving me thoughts for my book. Scrolled through lots of social media which is never particularly useful. Called Jimmy to confirm, it looks like we’re (nearly) roommates. Made lunch with the same package of salami except I threw it in a tortilla (you can’t change some habits) with nearly half a head of romaine and some seasoning; as close to pranzo on the Arno as I could get. More chillaxing, that vortex was exceptionally comfortable. Pulled the ripcord and left at 2 P.M. and straight into six miles of incline which wasn’t as bad as it looked on the map. Rocky and mountainous, more mysterious and brooding terrain begging to be explored. I picked the campsite which turned out to be a dry pond bed on the side of a ridge which doesn’t look like a great idea under dark skies. “Hard to imagine we’re less than 20 days away—”, “Shocks” interrupted me, “it’s more like 10, do you even know the cities left?” Big sigh. Weird feelings.

August 30, Day 118
24.3 miles [2427.9]

Lounged until 8 A.M. and greeted by more stormy and cold weather. Shocks seemed to want a buddy today so I hung around closer than normal. Stuffed bars into me, a hiking machine only requires calories. Clouds cleared enough to reveal some staggering mountainous terrain with trees and flowers which seemed quintessentially Washington. Used the mottled sunlight to dry off quilts and tents. The sun helped but it was a tough day to find motivation. Two big hills which were each six-plus miles. Tuna and cracker lunch restored some energy. Caught up to “Cray-nip” and “Beehive” for the last five miles which felt long but were all downhill. Set up camp along the Waptus River. Dinner was pasta primavera with a package of chicken as well as olives and some honey mustard bread pieces. It’s very difficult to contend with nearly being finished. My mind seems to have already moved on to Breckenridge, I’m ready to be there. Remember to slow down and enjoy these final few days.

August 31, Day 119
22 miles [2449.9]

The last day of August greeted me with drizzly and damp surroundings. “Beehive” and “Cray-nip” didn’t mess around and left. I was slow to start especially with a 10-mile hill, I was wheezin’ hard. Played a lot of the temperature regulation game by altering various combinations of jacket and buff. Blessed with an early 10:30 A.M. drying session when “Dingo” (mile 30 and mile 1,195!) passed us. We congratulated each other like war buddies who had made it back alive. His friend mentioned the border had reopened and I bellowed a triumphant howl, a roar from the deepest parts of my calloused feet and heart. This is big news for me, “Shocks” seemed unphased. Lunch was at a cascading stream, I had tuna with Combos, GORP, and a Milky Way bar. Took quite a few long, relaxing breaks which were peaceful. Completed the second hill and set up camp at the bottom of a frigid canyon, I’m going to snug up tonight. More aimless thoughts on Breckenridge, I should start envisioning less free-time, lord knows I’ll be stuck trying to earn money. I’m just excited to start this book. Dinner was chicken and rice Knorr with some tuna dumped in. A trail casserole? In typical fashion, I couldn’t wait to eat and most likely scorched my tongue. It’s been hard to motivate since the Alpine Club—got to take it in before it’s all over.

September 1, Day 120
17.3 miles [2464.2]

Damn—what a day. Slept until 7 A.M. and started hiking by 8:15 A.M. Easy enough terrain, flowy with a few small hills, a great hiking day with bro. Arrived at Steven’s Pass with hopes of food, but “Shocks” took a look at the menu and suddenly we both remembered what resort food entails. Ate some snacks and hung out on the pavilion watching mountain bikers, it got me excited for another ski season. Hard highway hitch but finally scored one going to Skykomish. Finally had a real lunch at 3 P.M. from Sky Deli and Liquor which was a garlic-chicken panini and an iced Americano, it actually tasted like espresso. It’s Labor Day weekend and it didn’t seem worth the three-day-wait for our resupply. Hitched to the Dinsmore’s with “Gandalf”, a goofy kid we met in Mammoth, he’s ending his hike here. Met Jerry and thanked him for his kindness. Dropped our gear and scored a hitch to Gold Bar by 6 P.M. Even remote areas of Washington have a vape and/or dispensary within walking distance. They were both open and had everything we wanted, hot damn. Resupplied at the Family Grocer—decent selection. “Shocks” yogied us a hitch from a guy who initially sketched me out and made me doubt strangers in the first place. “Jason” wanted to show us a local waterfall in the pitch black night. We stumbled down an embankment and onto the river rocks, just when I thought I was about to die, I realized he was a quirky dude who was just excited to talk to some hikers, he might have been one of the warmest souls I met. Thanked him for our last ride of the day, then did the shower and laundry shuffle. We did it—four hitches. Watched “The Informant!” and I read a few pages of “Yogi’s” book while winding down and she summarized thru-hiking: you feel invincible.

Hike On?

NoBo ->

<- SoBo

Justin Kernes 8/10/19 Justin Kernes 8/10/19

PCT 2018: Days 121-126, Skykomish to Stehekin

Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers days 121-126 from Skykomish to Stehekin, mile 2,465-2,570.

September 2, Day 121
12.4 miles [2476.6]

Rough night at the Dinsmore’s. Trains ran by what seemed like every hour, plus, being well hydrated with beer and water meant an out of the ordinary witching-hour piss. “Shocks” woke me at 8:30 A.M., he and “Gandalf” were almost packed. Jerry wasn’t up and around to thank which was a little disheartening, I can’t see this place being around much longer. Caught a hitch out with a current trail work volunteer “Spider” who was a part of rebuilding the brand new (and freshly re-opened) northern terminus monument. Hopped out at Skykomish and headed to the Cascadia Inn for brunch. All you could eat, I filled up on scrambled eggs, sausage and crispy bacon, hash browns with biscuits and gravy, plus fresh fruit; watermelon, pineapple, and strawberries. Coffee with real cream. The meal made up for more than one rainy day. Made a hasty sign and tried to hitch, eventually we ended up sweet talking a couple fueling up. Got to Steven’s Pass and “Shocks” gave a short phone call to the parents, then it was time to hike. On the way towards the trail we saw “Trash Queen” and “Penguin” trying to get the same challenging hitch from the highway. We hugged and caught up, looks like we all want to end on the same date. Hopefully we can meet and celebrate at the terminus. The weather was absolutely sublime. Saw a shit-ton of weekenders, many of whom congratulated us, it’s hard to contain my excitement when I tell people I started at Mexico. I felt unbelievably stoked and proud. Clear and cold night, no fly to watch the stars. Moments of anger about the Ranch, only because of Facebook. Who cares, move on.

September 3, Day 122
23.6 miles [2500.2]

That was the last flyless night I ever try in Washington. At 3 A.M. I woke to some cold sprinkles on my face and scrambled to put on my cover. Got a little more sleep and started moving by 8:30 A.M., snarfed a Pop Tart with butter. Stoked to hit the 2500 milestone. My nose has been constantly leaking in this cool weather. The forest is alive with color, rich hues of rust, umber, and olive. By the afternoon it had cleared up to reveal lots of nice clouds, a good reminder of how much time I spent without them, the sun and warmth felt wonderful during snack breaks. “Larry Bird” spotted a porcupine, I’ve never seen one in the wild before. It looked as though some quills were missing, just a little bedraggled. “TQ”, “Penguin”, and “Bear Can” caught us and we all shared camp at Reflection Pond. They are all aiming to finish on the 10th and doing 28 tomorrow, I’m not about it. Hopefully I see them again. Tuna taco with pepperoni and Cheetos. Remember to make your food last three days.

September 4, Day 123
25.4 miles [2525.6]

Restful slumber until “Trash Queen” and “Penguin” packed up, they left at 7 A.M. and we left an hour later—not in any rush. It was exceptionally gusty but a decent hiking day with more huge ups and downs, the last decline was 3,000-feet in five miles. Not a single flat section, the terrain was brutally technical with lots of rocks. Traversed a few miles which couldn’t have been the actual trail, just dozens and dozens of hikers making the same mistake at a hidden junction which wore in a new and more recognizable path. The tread was at an ankle-breaking angle with gnarled bushes and roots which clawed at your toes. During lunch “Shocks” was doing a poor job of holding back tears, offering no response. We trudged on. Just when I thought I was finished with the last hill, Milk Creek was full and didn’t have any available campsites which feels like my fault, of course they would be all taken, the spread of sites is stupid. The terrain is garbage. Looked at the map and started freaking out about another five mile incline as dusk was rapidly approaching. By the grace of St. John and his random pit toilets, there was a small clearing for a random pooper about a mile ahead which had barely enough room for three tents. We set up and made room for a third which was later filled. During dinner, “Shocks” briefly mentioned he was having a hard time with being finished. We sat quietly, not saying anything. I don’t feel the same currently but I know I will—I’ve always been that way. I’m going to miss this, deeply. Looking forward to the future, however, the present has been fucking sweet.

White Mountain and White Pass, mile 2502.

September 5, Day 124
27.2 miles [2551.8]

Slanted sleep, then a precarious poop less than 20 feet away from my tent which was my only unfavorable choice on location. Lathered up another Pop Tart with butter and began moving. Today’s terrain looked like a cross-section of a collapsed souffle, the final hill was a steady eight miles. It’s hard to silence the part of my brain which dreads hills, however I know I’ll be over and through it soon—a lesson on life. I only have one day of food remaining, not a half-day more, which has me slightly stressed. Guess I’ll have to snack-up at Holden Village. Low on podcasts once again and a wandering brain doesn’t feel good to have at the moment. Knees and legs are sore tonight. Our campsite is killer, we’re right on top of Cloudy Pass which is part of the fire reroute, alpine peaks in a smoky haze have me right back in the Sierra. Fought off more negative thoughts about the Ranch—not ideal. My lacking food situation makes it tough to stay positive. Big day ahead tomorrow, it’s all “off-map” which is going to be fun. Took a page from “Shocks’” cook book and made a Cheetos and Oreo peanut-butter-and-butter taco. He’s definitely on to something.

Dumbell Mountain and Lyman Lake from Cloudy Pass.

September 6, Day 125
~21 miles [2551.8]

Warmer than usual morning which had me hiking by 7:15 A.M. Absolutely stunning terrain, hard to imagine how much great trail is out there we otherwise would have never seen. Low on food, I was coasting on fumes, drinking water to fool my gut. Arrived at Holden village and missed the morning ferry by five minutes which left us with the option of waiting a few hours to take a $10 bus and an $8 ferry or hike out, both seemed to be the same amount of time. The lunch meal choice was a vegetarian sandwich which also didn’t sound like a great value for money. Somewhat dejected, I bought a few candy bars to chase my Clif bar and followed “Shocks” to the trail. Made it over the hot and hellacious Hilgard Pass which had to be more than six miles and was rewarded with downhill for the remainder of the day. Got to a large river crossing at dusk where there were a few other hikers attempting to find or make a suitable campsite. On the crossing I promptly plunged my foot into the current—mistimed my jump. “Shocks” and I eyeballed the topo and he voted to bust out the last four miles in the dark but my money says it was closer to six, plus, it’s not PCT-grade, we could have gotten a nasty, unknown surprise. Found the flattest ground with the least amount of rocks and made camp. Savored my last tuna taco with a handful of dusty and broken chips along with a package of M&M’s. It’ll work but I’m definitely hungry. Stoked for the final resupply, I think there’s one gnocchi meal remaining.

September 7, Day 126
6.5 miles [2571.8]

Uncomfortable setup as my back later revealed but I slept well nonetheless. Up and moving by 7 A.M. with my puffy for about two miles, it was shady and cool. No map-checking so I took what came to me. Cruised six miles or so to the road (definitely more than four) and made a quick assessment: go to the bakery. Devoured a pesto, onion, and Swiss croissant pocket which was a sincere 9/10, lots of coffee too. Caught the free shuttle to Stehekin and was blown away by the waterfront of Lake Chelan—chill vibes, gorgeous sun. Saw “Brownstreak” and “Miraj” at the lodge! Sat and talked, drank two beers, and went through our final resupply box. Also managed to download two podcasts on their slow network. Picked up a permit for zero miles which seemed to bum “Shocks” out, but I knew “Panda”, “Doobie” and a few others were gonna stick around at the bridge. Shuttled back to the bakery for a bacon and onion quiche and I got suckered into paying $3.50 for a root beer. Caught the bus for High Bridge Ranger Station with a few other hikers. Rain is in the forecast and certainly threatening at the moment.

Hike On?

NoBo ->

<- SoBo

Justin Kernes 8/9/19 Justin Kernes 8/9/19

PCT 2018: Days 127-130, Stehekin to Canada-USA border

Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers days 127-130 from Stehekin to the Canada-USA border, mile 2,570-2,652.

September 8, Day 127
27 miles [2598.8]

Had a hard time falling asleep which is rare. The threatening rain had turned to wet clouds, we hit the trail around 7 A.M. and I ate a Probar. Very long but not exceptionally strenuous 20-miles uphill to Rainy Pass was easy enough. Elon’s interview was a pretty fun distraction. Had a cool and quiet lunch break before the pass; peanut butter on day-old biscuits and jerky with Nutter Butter dessert. Drank caffeinated Mio like I was dehydrated in the desert. Met “Skaggit Ed” at Highway 20 and he had magic. He handed me an IPA and some amazing fudge. Did a few miles with “Panda” before the pass. It’s another cold night, there’s snow in the forecast. I’m not worried, rain is by far the hardest challenge. Cooked a jambalaya as best as possible and followed it with a Snickers. Started a list of things to do at home before moving to Colorado. Trail was quiet today, didn’t see many people. The end is on the tip of my tongue.

September 9, Day 128
24.7 miles [2622.0]

Brisk morning, rolled out close to 8 A.M. and headed for Methow Pass, shoveled Mojo bars into my mouth like coal into a locomotive. Harts Pass is closed northbound for a few miles which makes this our third reroute (I think). Listened to The Avett Brothers interview for the fourth time. It was cloudy all day and threatening rain, a typical sight. Spam and cracker lunch just as it began to drizzle but fortunately it never developed any further. Saw “Panda” and his pops at Hart Pass and learned his real name. They spoiled us and he let us raid all his extra food supplies, we took chicken and candy. Leapfrogged “Butters” and “Hot Mess” and I finally remembered their names without having to ask again. Man, I think we first saw them in the desert. “Shocks” and I smooshed our tents together and cooked in between the vestibules—chicken and noodles. I’m so unbelievably close to being finished: I want it so bad and not at all, at the same time.

September 10, Day 129
~25.1 miles [2644.3]

It’s my last night on trail. I woke up at 4:45 A.M. to light sounds of rain, like the crackling of fading fireworks. Tossed and dozed for four hours and finally got the gumption to pack. It was drizzly and wet most of the day, I spent the first four miles in the puffy and rain jacket, I was actually cold. My pants soaked up all the moisture from the overgrown brush. Kept putting one in front of the other, I ran out of podcasts and music long ago. Saw “Panda” one last time, saw “Brownstreak” one last time; they’re headed back to Harts Pass. Saw quite a few people I’ve met over the past few days but never took the time to officially meet and learn names. My hands were numb most of the day, feet pruney from wet socks. It’s currently raining and I need to pee. Tomorrow, I will become a thru-hiker. It’s taken over a year and more than what I spent on my car, probably 3,000 miles and almost more nights camping in a tent than my entire BSA career. There’s so much more to do, I’ve only just begun.

September 11, Day 130
16.3 miles [2652.6]

“Shocks” and “Tiny Slice”, PCT northern terminus.

My last cold start. Woke up, wide awake, at 4:30 A.M. thinking about the last day. Put on all my layers once again and got moving. My knee panged throughout the night and hiking certainly didn’t improve my condition. In some weird turn of events it was the only thing I could concentrate on. Less than nine miles to the monument and then I saw it—and felt nothing. When I went to pen my name in the log book I was trembling, my entire body welled up like I was going to implode—I made it. Celebratory joints with “Beehive”, “Cray-nip”, and “Feather”, “Shocks” surprised me and pulled out a small bottle of Jack. Also at the terminus was “Roadrunner”, “AutoPilot”, and “Colonel Sanders”. Everyone congratulated each other sincerely, we are the only ones who know what we went through. Time to leave, no sense in lingering it seemed. Hike to Manning Park was rough, I limped the whole eight miles. Got to the cafe and drank the as-advertised free coffee with as much cream as they would bring me. Hardest hitch was the final one, but after an hour of looking hopeful on an international highway near a border, Ramayaan was our savior and picked us up and drove us to Coquitlam, more than 100 miles. Starbucks for internet and a quick and dirty A&W burger (not worth it) before we figured out a metro train into Vancouver. Mistimed our transfer train and it took us a few tries of hopping off and on to figure it out—it’s so much easier to correct your mistakes at walking pace. No hotels, so we bought a 6 A.M. flight on our phones. After walking an extra block since we couldn’t remember where we got off, we took the last train into the station. Bought a Canadian Wendy’s burger and set up a makeshift camp in the lobby and got our packs ready for tomorrow. Today? It’s 2 A.M.; I’m a fucking thru-hiker.

Hike On?

<- SoBo

Justin Kernes 7/12/19 Justin Kernes 7/12/19

PCT 2018: Days 88-92, Ashland to Crater Lake

Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers days 88-92 from Ashland to Crater Lake, mile 1,700-1,820.

July 31, Day 88
0 miles [1717.7]

Spent the night under a desk which was exactly my size. Slept in until 6 A.M. which counts as late, giving us plenty of time to enjoy a continental breakfast, an event which I usually find scheduled far too early to be useful. Enjoyed a couple hard boiled eggs and a bagel with an atrocious amount of single-serving cream cheese pucks as well as coffee and orange juice just like TV ads say I should. It was a stressful day but I’ve come to expect that from town and resupply missions. The girls took charge on deciphering the public bus system. Two bus rides later we made it to Medford which had a mega shopping center and everything we “needed”. Did Kohl’s first figuring I could spend less. I found a new shirt solution in the Men’s Athletic section for only $30 and said goodbye to my Frakensteinian spirithood creation. Gang had been fantasizing about REI and despite my frugal ethos I gave in with ease, after all, I needed pants. The kind associate took me to the kids section and grabbed a large after I insisted I was currently wearing a 30 and needed something smaller. They fit like a glove and for $50 I had to remind myself it was a necessity. Also picked up a new water filter—goodbye 6 min/L fill times. With most of our gear-related issues addressed, we couldn’t resist the smell of In-N-Out any longer. Cheeseburger, fries, and a Coke was all that I remembered, possibly more. Jimmy called and asked about my winter plans, said he has a room available! I’m stunned and stoked, deciding tomorrow. Got off at the “wrong” Post Office with “Snacks”—who knew there were two? Mailed home some extra trail weight and my thoroughly used pants. Safeway was practically the only option for resupply and it wasn’t ideal, expensive and lacking in variety. “Penguin” and “Trash Queen” planned on buying and sending the rest of their food, Washington included, from here. The smell of stress was palpable but to each their credit they got it done, something I couldn’t imagine Adam and I having planned for back at home. Figured out the bus back to the hotel and decompressed at the hot tub. Cleansed with an entire bag of spinach and the remainder of last night’s ranch wing dip. Almost as busy as a 30-mile day.

August 1, Day 89
23.6 miles [1741.3]

Another restful night under the Comfort Inn and Suites’ desk. The seven of us packed and slowly vacated our now grody smelling room and got breakfast. Shared the herb butter I accidentally bought and spread it on a few English muffins. Knew it was a hiking day and forced down a couple more hard boiled eggs. Gang spent almost an hour trying to hitch out because it was a poor location quite far from the trail and basically on the side of the highway. We split up and eventually “Flipper”, “Froggy”, and I got a hitch from some parents who nervously joked about not being killed. We insisted that any real instrument of harm was likely far too heavy to carry and we were relatively harmless besides our smell. Got dropped off at the trailhead and I called Jimmy back to confirm about winter. Stoked. Sluggish, unmotivated miles, no doubt a side effect from beer and of post-zero blues. Ran into a couple of locals who warned me a large rattlesnake was curled up on the trail. I nodded and smiled because this was clearly another spurious wildlife spotting from untested day-hikers. Sure enough, a few hundred feet up and coiled dead center in the trail in an area littered with downfall was the largest or possibly second-largest rattlesnake I have seen. I didn’t know they could be greener than olives. I extended my pole and gently tried to coax him along which got “Penguin” frantically yelling at me—it was almost more stressful than the snake which had begun rattling—he slithered on. Since lunch was a tuna taco, dinner was cold-soak Ramen and a peanut butter and Oreo dessert taco. Shared a campsite with an older man named “Tequila Jon”, his name seems pretty self-explanatory. Camping at Little Hyatt reservoir and it has the first water which distinctly tastes like pond; not a great place to christen my new filter. Happy August.

August 2 Day 90
25.9 miles [1767.2]

Despite getting good sleep I felt tired for the majority of the day. It was only 26 flattish miles but they seemed difficult, I booked the last four as if it would somehow bring me closer to the end. Took lots of frequent breaks. My apathy weighs more than my pack. I have been thinking a lot about hikers skipping this section due to smoke and fire, which has been improving each day, and it’s shameful to admit it makes me frustrated. We’re out here busting our butts just like any other hiking day, there’s no reason to skip—yet. It’s antagonizing to hear hikers justify their reasoning. Whatever, HYOH, you’re capable of more than you realize. Ignored my rationing mind and nearly finished my Airheads supply and crushed the one Miller I had packed out during lunch. Wandering thoughts turned to Colorado, working on art, and being able to use a kitchen. Water sources have spread out to more than 10-mile carries. Not ideal, it certainly made enjoying the terrain more challenging. “Conflicted” caught back up and it boosted my spirits, his banter provides much needed distraction. Lots of chatter on planned finish dates which makes me anxious. To what degree am I responsible for catching up to Adam to see our parents in Cascade Locks? As much as I want to be done, I love the people I’m with and would gladly go to the border with them. Gang is planning on being at Crater Lake in two days, Adam will certainly not be there but Sam Schoevaars is flying in, “Flipper” said it will be a surprise. I hate deciding. It’s all going to work out.

August 3, Day 91
26.5 miles [1793.7]

Another day where I felt off, this nicotine pen can’t be helping. Today was good, I’m just so tired of hiking. I want a vacation. Walking is my job, it doesn’t seem fun anymore. Perhaps it’s the ongoing lack of big views, there’s too much smoke and trees, we joke about the Green Tunnel and how that must feel. Stressed about leaving the group and making it Cascade Locks on my own. “Penguin” reminded me Washington is 353 miles away and it dawned on me that my parents will arrive in 13 days which means I need to average over 27 miles a day without any zeros to make this “deadline”. My group doesn’t plan on that pace and the longer I hang out the more miles I’ll have to make up. Realized I went through a few of the five stages of grief during today’s hike. There’s no reason to be angry at my folks, even though this will be their third visit. Morning temps were legitimately cold and it was hard to break a sweat. Another tuna lunch and ramen dinner. Ramen is calories at this point, I should probably stop carrying it in favor of better items. Legitimately low on food but perhaps it’s the lack of choice which makes me think this, I probably have day’s worth remaining. More long water carries today and another 20-stretch tomorrow. I need to get back to setting manageable goals, I’m planning too far into the future. A good head-space makes for easy miles.

August 4, Day 92
28.2 miles [1820.9]

Drunk, not in the mood to write. Uninterrupted sleep and an early start where I took the lead, something I never do—it seems like “Froggy” is always first—and enjoyed a clear morning. Easy, flat miles, the thought of arriving at Crater Lake is enough to make anyone keep putting one in front of the other. Had lots of solitary time to think about leaving my trail family. Great lunch break, tuna, of course, in the shade where you needed a jacket but unzipped, we just enjoyed each other's company. Arrived at Mazama Village and celebrated. “Goat Man”, “Dutchie”, and “Trash Queen” were all there and many other hikers I recognized but never met. Picked up my half of our resupply box Adam thoughtfully left me, I even got a nice note too. Bought quite a few $1.60 beers and gang decided to splurge for a meal at the resort restaurant. I had meatloaf, fries, and beans which looked like the most filling, cost-effective option. Under the table, “Flipper” secretly passed around a bottle of Jim from their resupply. Found camp and set up in the dark. Congregated around the hiker campfire and quietly proceeded to spiral out of control. I’m drunk, high, and overwhelmed about how I’m getting to Washington and what that’s going to look like. I feel alone again. I don’t want to leave—but I have to. I can’t afford the zero tomorrow and make consecutive 30’s. Everything will be OK, stop stressing, why worry?

(L-R) “Dutchie”, “Goat Man”, and “Penguin”.

Hike On?

NoBo ->

<- SoBo

Justin Kernes 7/11/19 Justin Kernes 7/11/19

PCT 2018: Days 93-95, Crater Lake to Shelter Cove

Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers days 93-95 from Crater Lake to Shelter Cove, mile 1,820-1,900.

August 5, Day 93
28.5 miles [1848.4 ]

Piss-poor drunken sleep, my mind was completely obsessed with leaving. Woke up in the same thought pattern I had fallen asleep to, like it was the same day. Listened to my own trail register advice which I’ve been writing for nearly two-thousand miles and Committed to packing. Gear on and sunrise breaking, I left a super-lame see-ya-later note for “Flipper & Friends”, then walked back to the restaurant with “Conflicted” for a cup of coffee. “Silver Fox”, a familiar hiker yet I’m unacquainted, paid for our brews; it was a wonderful gesture. About to leave when “Flipper” and Sam—honorarily “Sunburnt”—sat down for breakfast. Talked and hung out as long as possible, snagged a group photo for posterity sake; I can’t believe I know those hooligans from Philmont. Apologized for leaving once again, then “Conflicted” and I began hiking. I knew it was going to be smoky and thought about coming back rather than the marred view. The Lake sprawled much larger than I had imagined, much like my first visit to the Grand Canyon when I was 12—it must be even more incredible on a clear day. Tons of tourists and clean day hikers which was expected, it was fun being an utter bum and attracting looks and conversations about “those PCT hikers”. Took a lunch atop the Watchman and crushed the one beer I decided to carry, that didn’t last long. Cruised around the rim, slowly, it was at our backs. Met a total cutie at the highway water cache who only started yesterday and is planning on going to Washington; I called her “Locks”, maybe it sticks. “Brownstreak” caught up! He’s been behind since Tahoe, and not long after, “Sticky Fingers” showed up, looks like he’s not taking a zero either. Hiked behind “Goat Man” for five miles and talked the whole time about vanlife and taking life after trail to the next level—great guy. A fiery sunset swatting skeeters away. Coerced “Conflicted” into letting me use his stove for my gnocchi meal. “Sticky” gave me a spoonful of cookie butter and now I know what my first hit of heroin feels like. Tonight’s camp has faces I recognize and some I don’t.

August 6, Day 94
33.8 miles [1882.2]

Smoky night which turned into a damp and chilly dawn, my quilt had a fair bit of dewy condensation. The five or seven tents which were up last night had already dwindled to three before I was packed, strapped, and moving. It’s odd trailing a group of people “by myself”, but I guess that’s what the majority of hikers have already gone through. In the first mile “Sticky” caught up, he must have been looking for a friend too, and we did the morning-10 together. Had a good laugh beneath the base of Mt. Theilsen—”Stick’s” friend said it was “non-technical” and there couldn’t be a more sinister looking peak in the entire state; certainly Class 3 and above. Lunch with “Stick” and “Streak” where I had a pepperoni roll-up appetizer and tuna taco as a main. Kept a steady pace through meandering hills. Realized I’m going to hit 2,000 miles before Day 100 (what a positively gorgeous reduction) and I can’t stop smiling. Twenty a day is way better than counting chairs in a lift shack for eight hours. Crossed the Oregon high point which felt lackluster after all the trail’s had to offer, a fun milestone nonetheless. I pushed past Windigo dirt road after 6:20 P.M. and did another four, absolutely annihilating nearly 34 today and it feels great. Breakfast for dinner: a House biscuits and gravy, I still have lots of food left—oops, more tomorrow. Ha! Soaring spirits and another note from “Shocks”. Tomorrow, our trails cross.

justin-kernes-oregon-washington-high-point-pct-self-portrait.jpg

August 7, Day 95
24.9 miles [1907.1]

Great sleep, got the lead out early and crushed 14.3 before 11 A.M. Finding my motivation since leaving Crater Lake has been an easy choice. Abundant water sources saw the vengeful return of mosquitoes which is kinda irksome. “Sticky” caught up to me by the afternoon and we cruised into Shelter Cove before 3 P.M. Despite having plenty of trail sustenance and picking up more, I was weak—like always—to resist real food and we split an absolutely FIRE chicken pesto pizza. I ate way too much, I haven’t hurt that bad since the AYCE buffet back at Harrah's. Waddled over to the lake, it’s gorgeous. Mountains are the purest form of escape but a large, secluded body of water does the trick. I realized kids who grew up in the Midwest and camped at lakes had a unique nature experience all their own, mountains or not. Uncomfortably stuffed my consciousness slipped like Altras on scree, it was warm and a cool breeze wafted through the shade; summer weather perfection. In my digestive haze, I met “Sassy-K” who remarked at my similarity with another hiker, then put it together and interrupted herself to mention that “Shocks” was probably looking for me. Adam is in great spirits and I’m stoked to see him. “Brownsteak” and “Conflicted” rolled in as well and all of us splayed out in the shade punch-drunk on mileage just like it was the Sierra. Everyone traded stories of Oregon-so-far. Decided it would be a rough night at the campground/resort and hoofed it back to the trail just as last light waned. Tipsy, full, and tired, we could have hiked another five but I found a good spot in less than a half-mile and everyone rejoiced. It feels good to hang with these four again.

Hike On?

NoBo ->

<- SoBo

Justin Kernes 7/9/19 Justin Kernes 7/9/19

PCT 2018: Days 100-104, Sisters to Cascade Locks

Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers days 100-104 from Sisters to Cascade Locks, mile 2,000-2,150.

August 12, Day 100
30.6 miles [2032.9]

Hard 30, quilt soaked for the second day in a row. Had a nice 360-degree view about six miles up, then took breakfast which was a peanut butter and bacon roll-up. Admired Three Fingered Jack. Spent a lot of the day in burned areas which is an odd mix of barrenness and austerity. Dried gear out at Rockpile lake during lunch. “Streak” was preparing for his 24-hour Challenge (read: napping, eating, and hydrating until dusk). “Horny Toad” was also there and recognized me from Hikertown back in the Mojave. Mount Jefferson peeked into view most of the day, eventually the trail opened up enough for a relaxed study. Nice break at Shale Lake with a few Polish hikers who I had been leapfrogging every week or so since Etna. We hung out and snacked—what a cool bunch. “Panda” caught up to us later in the afternoon. Saw a dead horse in the river, bloated and gray on the verge of bursting, thank God for nanofiber membranes. Finished the day cold and tired, must have botched my calorie intake. I was in decent spirits but I’ve realized “Shocks” likes to sleep in a little later and hike past dusk. Hungry, tired, and dark, we stopped at 8:45 P.M., but I guess if I don’t like it I can stop whenever I want and catch up in the morning. Had dinner in my tent: tuna taco and a Fireball chaser. Didn’t give much thought to Day 100. Remember, keep being awake. As the Avett Brothers sing, “it’s happening, right now to you.”

August 13, Day 101
31.7 miles [2064.6]

A few miles of incline to reach the top of Mt. Hood Wilderness and a first proper look at the monstrosity. Felt the urge to summit, perhaps one day. Fairly flat ten miles to Ollalie Lake where I had a relaxing hour-long snack break. An Illinois man by the name of “Slide” bought me a coffee since I was out of bills—such a nice gesture. Saw “Panda” as well and finally shook hands and met “MacGuyver (Boy)”, just as interesting as his penned name suggested. Listened to podcasts for most of the day and had a few quiet snack breaks to myself. Passed by ponds, streams, rivers, and lakes, they all looked the same. Had a good sit in a field of purple poodle-dog-esque flowers. Leapfrogged “Conflicted” quite a bit, he’s 24-ing all the way to Timberline, what a man. Kept dreaming about the buffet, the Guthook comments only entice me further. Met a section hiker named “Biscuit” at the end of the day and she set up camp beside “Shocks” and me. During diner conversation she elaborated on the finer points when one forages for mushrooms and crystals, an interesting person to say the least. I rolled my first joint in years and shared with “Shocks”, it was all loosey-goosey and bent. I need to figure out winter housing but there’s not much I can do. Sure hope it works.

August 14, Day 102
32.3 miles [2096.9]

First one to leave, thankful for the lack of bugs. Haven’t seen too many in the past few days, perhaps it’s because of the prolonged smoke. Took an early lunch/late breakfast at Little Crater Lake; peanut butter and GORP taco with wasabi soy almonds that “Conflicted” turned me on to. Tons of tourists, even a school bus’s worth of elementary school kids found their way to the small attraction. The adults in the group knew we were thru-hikers and told the kids. Most made a shocked face once they understood except for one kid who looked disgusted and sour, I cackled like a hyena—not a thru-hiker. Highway 26 had a little magic. Marilyn was all out of beef patties but had a veggie remaining. I figured enough charcoal, onions, mustard, and raw mileage could make any burger taste bovine. Potato salad was an added indulgence. A fair bit of fear-mongering for the last few miles into Timberline but the sandy terrain turned out not to be as bad as let on. In fact, the view more than made up for it; Mount Hood is incredible. Stupid-huge. Rolled my fourth joint in years (they’re getting better) and shared with “Panda” and “Shocks”. “Streak” left a note detailing his 24-hour Challenge results and physical condition. I knew he had it in him, but over 70 miles with a pack is crazy. Pulled into Timberline and spotted “Conflicted’s” tent. Tons of SoBos floating around the lodge and area. Called mom and she’s sending our next resupply, they are flying out tomorrow. Upon crawling into my tent, “Shocks” informed me we just did 96 miles in three days—bang bang! Got some new blisters which serve as a reminder of how good healthy feet can be. Still stoked on brunch.

August 15, Day 103
21.8 miles [2118.7]

Woke naturally around 6:30 A.M. and saw the hazy sunrise over one of Hood’s massive ridges. Packed and headed for the hotel lobby. Part of me was hoping the interior looked like The Shining but it was completely unique all its own, I should have snagged some photos but I was too preoccupied with eating followed by an immediate food coma. Piled my plate high with scrambled eggs, fresh croissants, greasy sausage patties and hot biscuits with gravy, juicy watermelon, and an ice-cold berry medley smoothie. “Conflicted” was feeling proud of his 24 Challenge and decided to have the buffet for a second day in a row. Did as much damage as I could, then utilized the WiFi and comfy lounge area while digesting to catch up on internet life. Got a promising email and phone call for winter housing. “Shocks” was better at escaping the vortex and left, “Conflicted” and I took a little longer to vacate. Headed out under the glory of Mount Hood. The haze obscured the peak somewhat but enough to truly recognize its beastly size. Saw some skiers heading for a lift and even a few distant ones making turns which practically gave me vertigo; skiing in the second week of August is weird, unnatural. Out of dabs, I rolled another joint and made slow time. A day-hiker who was returning from Ramona Falls saw me and assumed I was in need of a morale boost—perhaps it was my resting exhalation face—and gave me an overly excited “You’re almost at the falls!” to which I replied, “Nice, how far to Canada?” and her friends all exploded with laughter. The Falls were a lovely detour. Struggled through a tough 1,500 foot climb a few miles before camp and didn’t play the snack game well late in the afternoon on account of brunch. Border is close.

August 16, Day 104
28.1 miles [2146.8]

Waked and baked with my newfound rolling skills. Easy enough elevation gain and loss, but tough, jagged trails made for frustrating progress. Famed Eagle Creek alternate was closed and we missed the waterfall giving me yet another reason to return. Good snack break on Wahtum Lake, new favorite candy item are ginger-lemon gummies. I saw a few crayfish and was admiring nature so much I picked one up and was promptly pinched, let out a good squeal. I think I could’ve harvested a half-dozen for a cook-up. Met a hiker who immediately got into the “where did you start?” conversation and shared that she skipped a few hundred because of the smoke and wasn’t feeling guilty in the least. I smiled politely and nodded my head reassuringly in a hike-your-own-hike fashion but I can’t understand why people feel compelled to share those details. Now I know you skipped, you know you skipped, does it make you feel better? I guess it comes out easier when you think about it all day. Most of my afternoon thoughts revolved around leaving Oregon. Hiked until 6 P.M. and our parents met us just before Bridge of the Gods. Saw “Power Mode” at the bridge’s toll booth admiring another state completed, I haven’t seen her since around mile 300. It felt like California took a lifetime to finish, it’s hard to contend with another border crossing so soon—I was just at Crater Lake. Parents understand the game by now and we promptly found a pizza joint. “Conflicted” joined us and filled the entire conversation per usual (thank God). Two large pizzas and a salad disappeared. Drove to Vancouver, WA for the hotel. Shower and laundry. Parents are glowing but I’m already getting antsy. We did 350 miles in 13 days and I can’t help but feel like I missed something.

Hike On?

NoBo ->

<- SoBo

Justin Kernes 6/11/19 Justin Kernes 6/11/19

PCT 2018: Days 62-65, South Lake Tahoe to Sierra City

Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers days 62-65 from South Lake Tahoe to Sierra City, mile 1,090-1,195.

July 5, Day 62
18.9 miles [1122.1]

Slept in as late as possible due to last night’s celebration. Ate a chocolate snack pie to give my sour stomach something to work on while we lounged at camp. Eventually started making slow, unmotivated miles at 9 A.M. Up and over Dick’s Pass which was the only section of “up” for today’s terrain that looked sucky. Easy cruise the rest of the afternoon. Stirred up an appetite for a packet of PopTarts after a few miles. I just took a zero and had an outrageously fun holiday, still I want a vacation. Dare I say I feel bored? Perhaps any day which follows one like yesterday will be a bit bland. I’m so tired of hiking. The five of us took a windy lunch on top of some rocks along Fontanillis Lake. Did a double-ramen cold-soak and had handfuls of Swedish Fish. More lakes and snack breaks which always turn to smoke breaks. Called it quits without even hitting twenty and made camp. Had a small fire to keep away mosquitoes. Didn’t have much to say, probably dehydrated. Chowed down hard on my usual tuna taco and followed it up with a peanut butter and butter, honey, Oreo, and M&M dessert taco. Enjoyed sunset trickling through the dense blanket of trees surrounding our small camp.

July 6, Day 63
24.5 miles [1146.6]

Went to sleep with the expectation today was going to be long. Prayed to the pit toilet gods that Barker Pass trailhead would be freshly stocked with TP. Completely empty. I’m out, hopefully the abundant lamb’s ear will suffice. Rare internet access and a wandering mind informed me Philmont won’t be open for crews this season; the early fires were too dangerous. I’ve been dreading “the one” for the last eight years, the time I’m not there, it happens. Tried not to dwell on things out of my control like potential fire which could consume this trail. Cruised along Alpine Meadows, ate my other chocolate pie and couldn’t help but notice the package design was being quite generous with their product depiction, then into Squaw Valley. Took a smoke break in the top-shack of the Granite Chief lift with “TB” and “Sticky” and fantasized about winter, sizing up all the shreddable sick ski lines. Pushed on to Tinker Knob in the howling wind. Had a brief see-ya-later with “Sticky” who parted ways for Truckee; hopefully we reconvene. A few sectioners passed us by, thoroughly done with their journey and headed for the highway, and gave me a Backpacker’s Pantry—major score. Half mile more to the only “campsite” on the bare ridge. Squeezed into the only tree cover with “River”, who we met back at Kennedy Meadows, and “Blue”, someone I recognize from around Tuolumne area. Shoveled in dinner and found a good spot to watch sunset. Our evening color show was absolutely bonkers. Wildflowers too numerous to document and identify, remarkably all in bloom for what feels like the last month, shimmered in the setting sun. Layers of clouds speckled and streaked the horizon.

Squaw Valley ski lifts, Lake Tahoe in the distance.

July 7, Day 64
22.3 miles [1168.5]

Windy night of sleep. “Trash Bath’s” tarp didn’t fare so well but I think he could sleep through anything except free food. Packed and hauled ass seven miles down to Highway 40 stopping only for a joint at Jerome chair. Word on trail was a free beer to any thru hiker provided by Donner Ski Ranch. The restaurant awarded me a 40 ounce King Cobra (malt beer, what a thirst-quencher) and we made use of the patio. Proceeded to get inebriated which lead me to order a patty melt with fries; I can barely resist the smell of charbroiled burgers sober, I’ll forget how much it cost. I caught a few moments of a World Cup match, enough to remember the USA still sucks at one global sport. “Trashcan” has been struggling with foot pain, I will sometimes notice him rolling out his arches during lunch. Perhaps it’s his slight cauliflower ear or maybe his constant furrowed brow, his very visage all but promises he’s never said “stop”. He’s decided to take a few days off here, the gang is dwindling. Utilized cell coverage and crushed five and a half miles drunk and distracted talking to a few friends in the outside world. It was a lonely and quiet ten more before we set up camp. There was hardly any laughing this afternoon, it seems like “Shocks” barely talks to me anymore. It still feels like he resents me for being here, like nothing has changed. In a weird space for dinner. Tired, done, just try and stay present.

July 8, Day 65
26.9 miles [1195.4]

Hot and emergent midnight poop, it felt absolutely gross. Managed to fall back asleep with relative ease. Sunrise came and we left. “Trash Bath” and I chatted for most of the first ten miles, then he bolted ahead and began running like he always threatens. I think we’re all thoroughly tired of this section. I saw “Shocks” only twice on trail. The other 17 miles were spent alone with me and my racing thoughts. The four of us managed to coalesce under the North Yuba River bridge just before the highway. “Combo” must have been feeling daredevilish; he launched two spectacular 30-foot gainers off of the steep rock outcropping. A rather unexpected and fast-earned hitch cut off a mile of asphalt walking into Sierra City as the sun began to set. Hand-written, sun-bleached signs indicate town is closed on Sunday/Monday’s, I can’t possibly see how that’s a smart business choice even for such a backwoods location. Place is quaint, but it mostly gives off a homely and secluded vibe ranging somewhere between a dilapidated 70’s ski chalet and outdated Chinese restaurant. Fortunately the Post Office is open tomorrow: 10a-2p (reminds me of college administration hours), our resupply and my desperately needed new shoes are in that box. Listened to Jordan Peterson on Joe Rogan’s podcast and he got me ruminating about my current situation with Adam. Lots of nasty and malevolent thoughts. Bad juju. Broke down and got a can of Coke for $1.50. The church has provided a free overnight area, there were already a dozen or so campsites set up in the modestly sized front yard. I laid out my tarp and collapsed. My soles are sore, my calves are tight. No booze and I’m out of weed, stuck in sobriety. Two tuna tacos in hopes of replacing the malcontent with fat and sodium. Hopefully our package shows up tomorrow.

Hike On?

NoBo ->

<- SoBo

Justin Kernes 6/9/19 Justin Kernes 6/9/19

PCT 2018: Days 71-75, Belden to Burney Falls

Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers days 71-75 from Belden to Burney Falls, mile 1,300-1,420.

July 14, Day 71
31.8 miles [1331.3]

Today was exhilarating; always say “yes”. Peeped a little of the sunrise through my mesh door. Mobbed another 30 miles and my feet are beat, I generally ache. There was a 15-mile haul between water sources, the few options there were didn’t seem promising. Little Cub spring was 1) off-trail and 2) a gnarly 200-foot decline to access but at least it was ample. Regrouped on trail and ate first lunch with “Tooth Fairy” and “Upstream”. Hit the halfway point but honestly, it felt totally hollow. I remember how motivating the first 100-mile marker was in the desert or seeing the “10%” pile of rocks or getting the clap at Kennedy Meadows, but California is so long, it doesn’t feel like an accomplishment. Either way, we ate second lunch and came up with a plan for Chester, both agreed to go in tomorrow. Continued hiking downhill and wound up at the highway, plans be damned, praying for a hitch as dusk settled in. There was one promising lead for a Trail Angel who provided rides: “John Jacobs, I’ll try to give you a ride if you call me. I’m Chesterite ‘born and raised’”. An animated, fast-talking man soon arrived in a mid-90’s Acura Integra, miraculously the three of us squished our gear and stinky bodies inside. The entire ride into town was filled by John who, in the friendliest and most disarming way possible, told us the horrors of the judicial system, grow laws, and persecution he’s faced and evaded due to his self-proclaimed extensive knowledge of the law. He kindly dropped us off at Pizza Factory where Adam and I split a large garlic and chicken ‘za and a pitcher of domestic. Full and slightly buzzed we packed up and headed for the Lutheran Church to make camp. Upon approaching an intersection with a gas station, there appeared to be a man taking hot-laps around the pumps in a mobility scooter, the tail of his coonskin hat being lifted ever so gently by his modest speed. I looked away as to not draw any attention and crossed the street. Before the three of us had gotten halfway across, the man whizzed towards us, yelling “CITIZEN’S ARREST, CITIZEN’S ARREST” at the top of his lungs. It was 10:58 P.M. My heart was in my throat but after he slurred a few sentences, I realized he was completely hammered and bragging about his scooter—a gift for his infirmed father. “Shame you hikers don’t have beer or weed,'' he mumbled, changing topics drastically. “But at my house we do. Follow me.” He zoomed off into the night, tail following just behind. The three of us stood silently, realized we outnumbered him and had quite literally nothing to lose, and followed him. We ended up in his backyard where he promptly tossed us each a Bud Light and sparked a joint. The mosquitoes feasted on my thin blood but all I could think about was the kindness of strangers and the lengths people go to for camaraderie. He gave us his phone number and emphatically reminded us we had a job (growing related of course) whenever we wanted. I thanked him for his kindness and made one final comment on his savvy scooter purchase before we stumbled to the church. Chester is hella weird.

July 15, Day 72
11.4 miles [1340.7]

I woke up slightly before 5 A.M. with an odd, cold sensation on my face and I heard other tents rustling, then my lucidity arrived. It was beginning to rain, the entire PCT population of the Chester Lutheran church were furiously scrambling to throw on their flys, everyone unprepared from last night’s clear skies and muggy temps. Went to Kopper Kettle with “Conflicted” and “Tooth Fairy” for real breakfast: endless ceramic beige mugs of cheap coffee—a constellation of creamer cups filled the table—with biscuits and gravy. I’m stressed about this section and it seems the majority of hikers are as well. My shirt is toast, it lasted more than a thousand miles and is ripping apart from the shoulders. Dollar General was the only location which served my resupply and, somehow, clothing needs. I got a Hanes “Sport” cotton tee which isn’t a suitable replacement for my long-sleeve but at least my shoulders will be covered. Also my pants are ripped and flapping at the ankles which made walking more exhilarating and tripping more likely, I’ve been rocking my board shorts and boot-cut socks for the last three days. As for food, I scored some decent supplies, namely a small tub of mayo, a bottle of olive oil, and plenty of tuna. Repacked and consolidated in the shade of the church while drinking a Bud. Sewed my hood from the old shirt onto the new shirt and giggled at the result with “Tree Beard” for five solid minutes. Called it a success and cut off the arms as well and stashed them for later reattachment. Said goodbye to “Tooth Fairy” who has completed his remaining California sections and is finished for this season. Had a hard hitch out, but like always, it worked in our favor, there was even a trail angel handing out sodas at the trailhead. Hiked with “Conflicted” who’s neurotic yet undeniably hilarious and fun. I put in a solid hour before stopping to evaporate. As I pulled out my bag of snacks I instantly recognized the bearded guy in a straw trilby was Brett Callaghan, now “Flipper”. A huge, triumphantly-sweaty bearhug later, we acquainted group members and caught up on The Trail So Far. It’s hard to process how a long-time Philmont friend who Adam and I both know is hiking the same trail at the same time. Small world, infinite universe. Adam agreed to spend a few days hiking together but pointed out we hadn’t even made one-third our usual mileage today and our last zero was five days ago. Groups may not travel fast but they provide a morale boost worthy of many extra miles.

July 16, Day 73
30.0 miles [1369.7]

Restful sleep until dawn, then tossed and turned before giving up and getting going. Took a little side trek to Terminal Geyser (not a geyser) and Boiling Springs Lake which was both worthwhile and underwhelming, I wish I could have gotten closer. Received trail magic from “Ham”, a girl on trail who was zeroing with her folks. They gave me a Budweiser and an intensely sweet and juicy fresh peach which is the only fruit I’ve actually fantasized about on trail. Hiked all day with “Flipper’s” trail family and got to know “Froggy”, “Snacks”, “Trash Queen”, “Penguin”. Lots of hot spots before lunch and my feet have fucking blown up, there are massive blisters on both big toes and my arches are knotted and stiff. I’ve taken for granted how nice healthy feet are. Gave them a good scrub in hopes of knocking down the grit, swelling, and heat during lunch at Twin Lakes. I started and ended my experimentation with cold-soaking noodles, after a little over two hours, they took on a bubble-gummy texture similar to fresh Big League Chew except alfredo flavored. Twelve more miles to the next water source, Hat Creek, where we called it quits for the evening and so did quite a few other hikers. There were some nice clouds for a few hours but it was generally hot, I hope I didn’t get burned in my half-shirt-tall-socks-and-shorts combo. Rain will come soon. With “Conflicted” and “Shocks”, dinner was practically a family event. I saw Sarah and Kevin across the river, even “Sticky Fingers” came by to hang out for dessert. Way too much flat terrain, never thought I find myself wishing for hills and altitude.

July 17, Day 74
27.1 miles [1396.8]

Holy cow “Trash Queen” is an early riser, I have to remember to set up farther away. She probably had the right idea since it was hot as balls, dare I say prohibitively hot today. Subway Cave was a point of interest and a small detour took us to an underground lava tube requiring puffys. Against all of our better judgments we smoked out one of the alcoves offending, no doubt, several civilians. “Shocks” needed to go to Old Station for a package, he left after we emerged from the refreshing depths. Made it a few more hours before seeking shelter under a few scraggly pines for lunch. “Froggy” pulled out salami slices and began lathering up a tortilla with mayo, I can’t believe I haven’t done the same thing yet, they will most certainly be on my next resupply. Hat Creek Rim was brutally hot, I was completely unprepared. My calves certainly got burned from wearing shorts, I bounced my umbrella from side to side trying to cover as much bare skin as possible. Water is sparse, if it wasn’t for a maintained cache it would have been a 29 mile carry which seems on the verge of not possible for this stretch. Just when I thought it couldn’t get any hotter, or my water any warmer, we stumbled into an ice chest under a lone tree. It’s funny how your heart rate increases and you pray it’s not full of trash. There were two choices: Coke or Sap, a maple-flavored soda which I grabbed immediately and much to my amazement I had enough restraint for one item though I was reminded Coke is always a superior choice among pops. There was also a bag of Cuties, a fruit which I didn’t know I missed. Tonight’s sunset was the type which people compare other sunsets to and struggle to find the correct, descriptive words but ultimately say “cool” and “colorful” to a point of cliche. Currently laying shirtless on my pad, no quilt, sweatin’ just like everyone else. I’m ready to be done with California.

July 18, Day 75
23.2 miles [1419.0]

I got up and moving around 6:30 A.M., “Flipper” and “Froggy” nowhere to be seen. Busted an easy 13 miles to Burney Mountain Guest Ranch, another 10 before 10. It was shaping up to be another warm one so we hung out for most of the afternoon. Immediately purchased a gigantic pickle and Coke to combat lost electrolytes. Saw Sarah and “Sticky Fingers” lounging in the shade, they confirmed doing a 40 yesterday—gross. Utilized the down time and my recent calf-burns to sew the ripped ankles of my pants, they turned out functional and durable beyond my wildest hopes. Still, there’s about four inches of extra waist-room in these suckers. Gave my socks several rounds in the sink until the water ran a tea color and not Folgers extra dark. “Numbers”, a PCT alumnus I remember meeting back at Hiker Heaven, seemed to be a vague authority and gave hikers a quick tour of the place. Had a cheeseburger for lunch and bought a few sleeves of PopTarts and Oreos from the convenience store to hold me over until Shasta’s resupply. Much to my amazement there was a billiards table, remarkably, a decent one, which was available for use, they trust us dirty hikers way too much. I ran the table all three games I played while waiting for my burger. Left the vortex and made it another ten miles to Burney Falls and hung out while the rest of the gang showed up. Saw an Angel in the parking lot who was trying to meet up with her hiking friend, she offered us watermelon slices and a Gatorade. Took the obligatory side trip to the falls, they were impressively large, it took up nearly my entire field of view. I found by defocusing my eyes, similar to those 3-D repeating pattern optical illusion puzzles, the water seemed to hang in suspension with the always static land whizzing by. It was a trip. Set up at the campground and scored two ramen packets which I cold-soaked for dinner, another meal I don’t have to worry about. Met “Happy Feet” and she did my sleeve, rather, she saw me struggling to find a way to sew my detached arms onto my t-shirt and gave me a quick lesson on a running stitch. It’s odd how I have nothing but time and it took me more than a week to address this issue.

Hike On?

NoBo ->

<- SoBo

Justin Kernes 5/7/19 Justin Kernes 5/7/19

PCT 2018: Days 41-44, Mount Whitney to Bishop

Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers days 41-44 from Mount Whitney to Bishop, mile 766-831.

June 14, Day 41
19.2 miles [791.9]

Frost on my bag once again, another cold start. Still a little bummed out and attempted to wake and bake my woes away. Definitely harbored some anxiety about today’s terrain and what it would bring but I quickly got enamored in the grandeur of the Sierra. In the first few miles I forded Tyndall Creek rather than take the time to find an ideal rock-hop-spot which resulted in soaked shoes ending in torn blisters. Slopping around in slushy snow didn’t help either. I have to remember to keep my shoes dry. We got to the final approach and looked up at the remaining 700 feet of gain while filtering water. It looked like Forester Pass was going to fall into space. A nearly vertical wall of snow was clearly visible from the bottom—the most highly anticipated and fear-mongered location so far. People had asked “are you going to bring microspikes? Where’s your ice axe?” There I was, time to cross the bridge, a phrase I’ve come to love. Intimidation abated with each step taken closer to the saddle. I glided across the snow-covered section with ease. Another hiker who had been tailing us the entire way up had halted before the snow. From 200 feet away, it was easy to tell he wasn’t a happy camper. “You got this”, I yelled over the chasm, “it’s way better than it looks!” He nodded, flashing a thumbs up, then took cautious steps all the way across. We saw him at the top, beaming. After a snack break we glissaded down the backside and continued to Glen Pass; it kicked my ass. Low food with a rationing mentality lead to me bonking. I was whopped, Adam was light years ahead of me. Two passes in a day is ridiculous. The thought of food kept me moving—50 miles to Bishop.

Forester Pass and the Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Parks boundary, mile 779.5.

Northern side of Forester Pass, mile 780.

June 15, Day 42
23.8 miles [815.7]

Warm sleep for having camped above 11,000 feet. Got up and out with intention because it’s hard to lie on my back with how tender my heels are—I can feel my heartbeat throbbing in my feet. Nervous about how well I would do but blisters are a known quantity, it really can’t get much worse than this. Just have to keep putting one in front of the other. Only a few miles in, I took my shoes off in order to cross between Rae Lakes with certain dryness. After yesterday’s water-logged experience my new mantra is still ringing in my head: wet is worse. Drifted throughout treeline, dozens of half-frozen alpine lakes speckled the rocky terrain. Pinchot Pass wasn’t forgiving, albeit much easier than Forester and Glen. Intense beauty was all around but I found myself looking down most of the time, the sheer discomfort pulling me away. However, I must have hopped over 50 streams and at each one, with enough searching, there were enough slick rocks or creaky downed limbs for a strategic jump-and-pray, each leap followed by a gratifying mental ding of success—I felt like a video game character. During one of my searches I found a half-full bottle of olive oil bobbing in an eddy which went spectacularly with our pasta dinner. At this point my food bag is mostly bag and trash, free calories were a godsend. Pushed to the base of Mather Pass and set up camp as spumoni skies faded into starry oblivion.

Adam gives me “knucks” for getting over Pinchot Pass.

Marmota flaviventris, yellow-bellied marmot. — *Marmota flaviventris*, yellow-bellied marmot.

Sunset in Upper Basin, Mather Pass, mile 815.7.

June 16, Day 43
27.3 miles [831.0]

Heard other hikers packing and instantly craved more sleep. I stuck my head out of my vestibule and found Adam already breaking down his tent. Hustled and got up and over Mather, then began 4,000 feet of descent for the Bishop Pass trail junction. Obsessed about food to the point of fantasy. Played a mental game where I tried to imagine foods I wouldn’t eat even if offered to me right then and there (I didn’t come up with anything). It worked well at keeping my mind off my feet which are completely fucked up. Cold mornings, soggy shoes, sharp rocks and crusty socks, 25-mile days, and low calories, never have I had this many blisters. Arrived at the junction and devoured my last packet of tuna—dry. Adam and I have both done Bishop Pass many times but always the northern approach, never from the other side. It was brutal. The first three miles might have been my hardest physically. Had a few excruciating moments of wanting to “Stop”; to just not hike anymore, to sleep and get as close to death as I could, but those moments faded just as they always do. A mile before the pass, Adam threw out one of his usual outrageous suggestions. “We could always push for the parking lot”, he dryly said, both of us drenched in sweat and sucking wind, the sun already having set behind massive granite peaks. He was just as done as I was. Somehow, delirious, I agreed, adding another six miles to our day. At 10:30 p.m., broken, tired, and hungry, we arrived at windy South Lake parking lot. My resupply had two packets of Probar Bolts, a highly coveted gummy snack lovingly saved from summer camp, I had already eaten the first pack on top of Whitney, saving the final pack for a special occasion. I chewed them slowly, trying not to think too much about what I’m going to eat tomorrow.

June 17, Day 44
0 miles [831.0]

A windy night continued into the morning, I had on all my layers while waiting for a hitch. Didn’t sit long before meeting our lord and savior, weekend warrior, Thomas, who by his own account was headed home a day early since he “wasn’t feeling it”. Got dropped off at the famed bakery and I limited myself to a chocolate croissant, chocolate covered espresso beans, and a large coffee which covered a large portion of my vices. Dined al fresco and watched clean tourists before heading over to McDonald’s for the “real food”; two chicken sandwiches, a large fry, and a coke, all while refilling my podcast supply. Wandered through a few gear shops and found two things: a replacement water filter and “Trash Bath”. The three of us formulated a plan for the upcoming section while booking a room at the Hostel California. There weren’t any laundry services so I dumped out my remaining crusty packet of drink mix and a few straggling raisins from my bear can and threw in my fetid garments with a few hefty squirts of dish soap—the socks took four rounds alone. Adam pointed out that it was opening weekend for “Incredibles 2” and the dinky two-screen theater probably still had a few tickets left. We made use of the free bikes and purchased tickets before taking a quick pit stop at the grocery store for beer and munchies. Even though the theater was completely full with 8-year-olds, the movie was amazing. Stayed well past the credits, then biked back to the grocery store for a full resupply and tonight’s dinner. At the hostel, I cooked brats and onions, in a real kitchen on a real stove no less, Adam made a salad, and “Trash Bath” shared his gallon of mint chip. Feeling the vortex hard on this spectacular zero, it’s not going to be easy to leave.

Hike On?

NoBo ->

<- SoBo

Justin Kernes 5/5/19 Justin Kernes 5/5/19

PCT 2018: Days 50-52, Mammoth Lakes to Tuolumne Meadows

Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers days 50-52 from Mammoth Lakes to Tuolumne Meadows, mile 906-942.

June 23, Day 50
9.3 miles [915.9]

Decent rest for having slept near a road, drunk. “Shocks” shared his other Torpedo while we packed up and waited for “Combo” to come pick us up, the four of us went to Von’s for resupply. A disgruntled shopper got confrontational when he scrutinized my 23 items, not the stated and illuminated “15 or less”, most likely because I look homeless. While sitting at a table repackaging my food, a motorcyclist who was parking came within inches of colliding with me, even grazed my shoulders with his handlebars, the old man didn’t even acknowledge the incident to anyone at our table of four. Justin’s of the past would have handled both of those situations far worse; I just ate my Talenti in the shade and enjoyed not moving. We said our see-ya-laters and “Combo” dropped us off at the resort. Started chatting up lifty Sinona who gave us the nod for a free ride in the gondola. At the top I pilfered 10 mayonnaise packets from one of the restaurants while we watched mountain bikers bomb the slope and charged our electronics. I killed my remaining beer from last night. Met “Gandalf”, a kooky fellow, who was also waiting out the midday heat. Caught the return bus to Red’s meadow where I drank more beer. Spent a moment being touristy at Devils Postpile and admired the basalt columns. Struggled through nine miles of mosquitoes before setting up camp to seek refuge where I had my first fire of the entire trail. After 50 days, I’m finally starting to get the hang of this.

“Trash Bath” rides the Mammoth Ski Resort gondola.

Devils Postpile National Monument, topside.

Hexagonal columnar basalt of Devils Postpile.

Fly fisherman on the Middle Fork San Joaquin River.

June 24, Day 51
20.1 miles [936.0]

Waking up doesn’t seem to be any easier on trail, no doubt thanks to yesterday’s diet of beer. I got up late and took my time packing and hydrating. I hope the pictures I take somehow remind me of the sheer grandeur of the Sierra—it feels trite to keep calling everything gorgeous, amazing, and beautiful. Easy enough hike to Thousand Island Lake where we met a young family of four just about to leave. They had two sons under 13, everyone carrying remarkably high spirits, and informed us they were doing “just a 100 mile section”. I remembered the odd level of enjoyment and suffering backpacking taught me from Scouting. I took care to fist bump those little dudes with an extra level of coolness that only a group of three smiling, wild thru-hikers could provide. Was beyond stoked to take an extended lunch break staring at Mount Ritter but as soon as we sat down the skeeters began their assault. So far, the highs and lows of trail life are a natural and common occurrence, but it was then that I reached maximum frustration. I just feel helpless, my life has been reduced to two states: either moving constantly, never enjoying the solitude of rest outside of a netted shelter, or to accept it, like some sort of self-immolating monk, waiting for the possibly diseased swarms to suck me dry and cover me with itchy reminders for the upcoming weeks. I’m already chewed up, what’s the use in fighting? Sailed over Donahue Pass to find cleaner air and was rewarded with my new favorite view (so far). Another five miles before calling it quits and making camp. Pleased my tuna taco game has been fully optimized. A thoroughly squeezed mayo packet, a glug of olive oil, and a few heavy shakes of Old Bay goes into an awaiting tuna pouch. The gloopy contents is spooned onto an awaiting, crumbly tortilla and garnished with a heaping handful of hot Cheetos, tonight I had two. I’m utterly exhausted, but not hungry. And fuck mosquitoes.

Island Pass, Thousand Island Lake, and Mount Ritter, mile 922.5.

“Shocks” admires Mount Ritter, mile 923.4.

Donahue Pass, Lyell Fork, and Lyell Glacier, mile 930.5,

June 25, Day 52
14.5 miles [942.5]

Enjoyed sleeping late, then read until just past 7 A.M. Just as we were about to head out, I recognized Casey, the girl who “Shocks” and I met and hadn’t seen since the terminus, was about to sail by and I shouted out her name. She raced over and gave me a monstrous bear-hug, pack and all. It was strange because my only form of human contact on trail so far has been entirely fist-bumps. We chatted and caught up over the next few miles before she zoomed ahead. I don’t think I’m going to catch her. Arrived at Tuolumne Meadows and enjoyed the loving embrace of a picnic table. There were a dozen or so lonely sodas and beers with no accompanying notes and after deliberating, I took one of each. A young man with black frames and a hot pink shirt appeared to be holding court at one of the other tables. I recognized his face from scrolling through social media and asked if “Twerk” had taken his photo, a name I heard back at Casa de Luna. “I am ‘Twerk’”, he said sweetly and the table erupted behind him. It’s refreshing to find someone making original content, we talked shop for just a few minutes. Sat there feeling apathetic about moving, but “Trash Bath” wants to hike, he’s never been to Yosemite. I buckled and got a double cheeseburger with a hot coffee from the grill which seemed to boost my spirits. The three of us hemmed and hawed but agreed a $6 per person campsite was a good purchase. Set up camp and decided that Cathedral Peak—a pinnacle of angry, wicked granite—was a worthwhile summit. I snagged another beer from the convenience store before we blazed into the unloaded portion of our digital maps. Navigated to the trailhead and began the ascent, Cathedral sharply looming over us the entire time. The higher I climbed, the more exposed the terrain became, I should have figured a rock spire would be treacherous. With each step towards the peak I wanted to turn back, but I ignored the scared, weak boy who just wants to sleep and drink in the void of all things difficult. Class 2 morphed into 3, then suddenly 4, I scrambled past a pair of climbers practicing rappelling techniques, death a very real possibility. My brain loudly reminded me this was the second most exposed I had ever been without gear and rapidly was becoming number one. I pushed until I was 20 feet from the top before my wits and reptilian brain won out; this was good enough. Made it safely back to the trail portion, we all trail-ran, knocking off three miles of descent in less than half an hour. Stumbled onto the main road just before the convenience store closed. I got a carton of Merlot and we retreated to the very full backpacker’s campsite. Met “Sticky Fingers”, a friend of “Trash Bath’s”, he offered me a draw off his Makers Mark. There was a half a liter of Coke which I used to make kalimotxos, educating everyone with a full cup who gave me quizzical looks. Absolutely blitzed but I earned it; a reason to celebrate.

Hike On?

NoBo ->

<- SoBo

Justin Kernes 5/3/19 Justin Kernes 5/3/19

PCT 2018: Days 57-59, Sonora Pass to South Lake Tahoe

Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers days 57-59 from Sonora Pass to South Lake Tahoe, mile 1,020-1,090.

June 30, Day 57
28.8 miles [1049.5]

Deuced, then bounced; this group is fast. Hiked the majority of the morning with “Trash Bath”, “Combo”, and “Sticky Fingers” and, much to everyone’s delight, “Brownstreak”, who had caught back up. We chugged through miles of incredible vistas, even this mountain of rocks with a lone gnarled and dead tree. Took a late lunch, borrowed needle and thread and used the opportunity to sew up the holes on my right shoulder. First rip and it nearly made it a thousand miles. “Sticky’s” friends who were in last night’s hitch have joined our group: Sarah and Kevin, who seemingly reject trail names, and “Trash Can” are all new faces from the past day. We were all chatting at lunch when a pair of JMTers or sectioners (they didn’t seem like thru-hikers) told us there was trail magic at Ebbet’s Pass ending at 7 P.M. The map said 11.9 miles away and it was a quarter to three. My new friends bolted, it was a mad dash. I didn’t stop at all except to pee twice. With two minutes to spare I stumbled over the highway, legs pulsating with small spasms. A group of hikers were lounging near a vehicle and a foldable table. There was a full-on pizza oven, a kind of ludicrous contraption you might see buried in the pages of a SkyMall, which fit over a massive portable propane camping range. I collapsed against a tree with the other hikers and tried not to look too desperate. Immediately, I overheard they were out of pizza. Sarah who must have beaten me by only five minutes shared her slice with me; I don’t think I’m capable of a gesture that benevolent. The kind family noticed us last few stragglers and told us they would “make something work”. Out of their ice chests came containers of a homemade soba noodle dish. It had cilantro, green onion, pineapple, Thai basil, cabbage, all doused in a spicy sesame sauce--the most fresh vegetables I’ve had in over a week. A moment of lucidity informed me I would’ve happily paid $26.89 for it a trendy LA fusion restaurant, already having eaten two meals of my choice that particular day. I licked my cup clean just as logs of fresh mozzarella and heirloom tomatoes were passed out. “Now who has the balsamic” I joked to the hikers, beyond satisfied at the provided bounty. “Sticky Fingers” leapt up with a mischievous and elated look, he struggled to hold back a grin. Shoulder-deep, his arm emerged triumphantly from his pack with and adorable single-serving bottle of balsamic vinegar. There was clapping. Snagged the remainder of the fresh basil and made caprese, sharing with anyone still hungry. My life feels complete. The remaining dozen or so hikers all amassed and we thanked our angels with dirty, sweaty hugs. “Your kindness can never be repaid,” I said squeezing tight, their eyes glistening and sparkling with love.

July 1, Day 58
20.6 miles [1070.1]

A sporadic crinkling of pads and tents began before the sun had risen. At some point I had acquired three packets of Folgers instant crystals, the tipping point in critical mass for achieving any type of altered state, and wiped out the straggling soba noodle from my cup and made a coffee-slurry. Reynolds and Raymond Peaks were a stunning sight and we crushed the first seven miles easy. Any moment of stillness I had was immediately filled with thoughts of the Harrah’s buffet—everyone’s going, hell “Dixie” put it on her top five. Managed to take a rare lead and hold it until lunch. I picked a spot at Lower Sunset Lake and left a note for those behind; when there’s a lake, there’s a reason to take a long lunch. Enjoyed the packet of kippers I had been saving while cold-soaking two bricks of ramen. Fruit Snacks have been a recent discovery and I must have inhaled four baggies of the little suckers. At that point the gang had arrived fully and we were all splayed out at the water’s edge, deep in lunch. A couple rolled up in their Jeep and began unloading two kayaks from the roof. They saw us, filthy and partly nude, in the shade and politely offered us water to which we politely declined. “Oh, well, in that case do you guys want some beer?” Everyone leapt up faster than I had ever seen, myself included, trying not to look too eager. Soon, a very unofficial rock-skipping competition broke out while a few joints were rotated around. “Sticky” and “TB” inflated their pads and paddled out about a hundred feet onto the lake, and with stunning success, lazily rafted. The dream had to end, we packed up and had a hilly, hot hike out, but intense mountain views were enough of a distraction. Gang got tired around 5 P.M., I was ready to hike further but opted to hang out. Had a campfire whereupon “Brownstreak” produced a two-inch cast iron pan out of his already minuscule Pa’lante. He sliced up a few fingerling potatoes and a clove of garlic, cooked it over the modest coals, dumped the whole affair into a Mountain House and passed it around. One of the rare times music seemed appropriate so I played a few bands out of my phone and everyone shared the sweets portion from their food bags. I offered up my whiskey and we all laughed until the embers slowly faded cold. My feet feel great, my muscles feel limber, I’m stoked for Tahoe and the 4th of July. And that buffet.

Thornburg Peak and a distant Hawkins Peak, mile 1057.6

July 2, Day 59
19.9 miles [1090.0]

“Trashcan”, the resident chief snorer and earliest-riser, made moves before 6 A.M. Carson Pass came and went, soon after we were at the information station where the kind staff provided thru-hikers with fresh cherries and ice cold Cokes. Took a few moments in the shade and people-watched at the busy Highway 88. Cranked out 15 more sticky, stagnant, sweltering miles, the buffet, part motivation and part hallucination, was the only thought on my mind. Made it to Highway 50 where we promptly split into groups and tried to hitch. I hopped in the back of a pickup with “Trash Bath” and “Combo” knowing full-well the other half of our group would catch up. Had to grab a second hitch to get closer into town. A few miles down the road, “TB” casually mentioned he was looking to re-up and our driver shot us all a knowing glance and whipped a u-turn, making a beeline for his apartment. After meeting his friendly dog and eating some normal brownies, we continued back into town, pockets full of therapeutic cookies and a fat baggy full of recovery. Gang reconvened at Taco Bell and decided we couldn’t possibly wait another day for the buffet. We headed towards the hotel and looked for a place to stealth. Directly behind the Harrah’s parking lot was a small wooded area which seemed secluded enough. With responsibilities taken care of, “TB” smoked us all out in preparation for our feast. Achieved a nearly uncomfortable level of high, I was paranoid my horrible stench was unable to mask the smell of drugs. None of us were Diamond members so we patiently waited in line, having arrived ten minutes after opening. Once the velvet rope had been lifted we hurriedly walked into the farthest region of the dining area, with the other hikers, as to draw the least amount of confused, comatose stares from the other patrons. I didn’t know what to expect but I knew I wasn’t about to load up my first plate in giddy, childish delight, slopping together whatever my lizard brain was craving. Weak. There’s one rule at a buffet: when the door’s close. After much restrained contemplation, I took a warmed plate and stood in line for prime rib, opting not to live up to my namesake when I was being served. I slowly enjoyed each jus-covered morsel, satisfied by how much it didn’t taste like tuna. Sarah was impressed by my singular first choice, her plate considerably less of a postmodern mess than “Trash Bath’s”. Red meat begged for a salad, on my second plate I heaped together as many fresh vegetables a bed of spinach and romaine would allow for and doused the whole affair in ranch which was an unbelievably nice vacation from olive oil. Having sated two of my biggest food urges (fresh meat and veg), my tastes turned ethnic and I had a wonderful chili pork stir-fry alongside a cold shrimp dish. Fairly certain I went back for another go-round, but in my binge, I can’t remember. Fifth course was dessert, I had an eclair and a handful of chocolate covered strawberries. Somehow I skipped sushi so I decided to sample their selection with my post-meal coffee. Any remaining room and/or neurosis which told me to get my money’s worth was filled with bread; empty, free calories I can get anywhere. Waddled behind the casino and set up camp. Full with a capital “F”, ready for a legendary zero.

Hike On?

NoBo ->

<- SoBo

Justin Kernes 4/10/19 Justin Kernes 4/10/19

PCT 2018: Days 1-4, Campo to Julian

Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers days 1-4 from Campo to Julian, mile 0-80.

May 5, Day 1
20.5 miles [20.5]

I am absolutely stunned at how beautiful it all is. Met Ian and got my portrait taken, he says he'll be at the northern terminus sometime in October. Twenty minutes into our hike, we crossed the first of many milestones; mile-marker 1. It was hard not to smile. Two miles in, we double-backed into Campo for water. I later realized Hauser Creek was 15 miles away and the two liters of water I initially brought wasn't even going to last 10 miles. Saw a dozen or more hikers and found myself jumping to conclusions about their abilities. They probably knew about the lack of water sources though. Before Morena Mountain, we met “Charlie”, a weathered man on a motorbike. “You guys know you're crazy, right?” We chuckled and declined his offer for water—that lesson already learned. Adam seemed to be a wizard with Guthooks; kicking myself for not trying it out sooner. “The malt shop closes at 8 p.m., that's my goal” he said dryly as the sun was setting. At 7:59 p.m., we arrived wet and tired. Split a shake and french fries. Can't help but think this wasn't 'deserved'. Today was a butt-kicker, I've got to remember to drink more water—take care of yourself.

“Charlie”, somewhere near Morena Mountain.

May 6, Day 2
19 miles [39.5]

First full day on-trail! It got intensely hot quickly; tomorrow we're going to need to start earlier. A few miles in we stopped and chatted with a woman who introduced herself as “Nona From Nowhere”. She waved a bag of peanuts still in their shells at Adam and I. “You guys got names yet?” We shook our heads, smiled, and introduced our real names. “Hey Illinois, want some peanuts?” she said to Casey, the girl we'd been leapfrogging all morning. A big grin covered her face, “you know, I'm a Triple-Crowner,” she said wryly. “I angel a little bit up in Vancouver—you'll see me later.” She bid us a safe journey and we thanked her for the peanuts. The rest of the afternoon was rather uneventful. In the evening, when I went to put away my umbrella, I was stunned to find my second hiking pole was missing. It must have snagged on a branch and been stripped from my pack. My music was far too loud to have heard anything. Adam and I double-backed for more than a mile to no avail. Bummed to have lost a piece of gear so early, but I can't imagine a day when I won't need the umbrella. For now, #onepolepatrol.

“Nona from Nowhere”, has hiked all three long-distance trails in North America.

May 7, Day 3
20 miles [59.5]

Started the morning strong with a Snickers bar. Made it to Pine Tree Lodge for some biscuits and gravy and a fresh espresso—I couldn't resist. Briefly stopped at the Mount Laguna general store; got a Budweiser and some chips. What a quaint little town. Today was also my first trail magic! At Roadside Lookout, we met Andrew and Jamie, who gave us ice-cold sodas and regaled us with stories of just how bad Scissors Crossing was going to be. Got moving after a nice long break, cool breezes made today tolerable. Filled up water and crushed the beer at Penny Pines Point; this carry has to last until Julian tomorrow—28 miles. After the sun had set, I took of my shirt for the last few miles of the day. Refreshing evening air filled the canyon as stars slowly began to appear.

Sunrise trailhead campsite at night, mile 59.5.

May 8, Day 4
20.9 miles [80.4]

I'm getting better at waking up earlier; today we started hiking at 6:40 a.m. Although it seemed like there was only a few hours of tolerable hiking weather before it got insanely hot. The entire slog to Scissors Crossing was novelty-hot. My water tasted about 95 degrees. Every few miles I saw a full, unopened Lifewtr, each bottle scrawled with “the desert is a cruel bitch” in Sharpie. There were rumors of a guy who didn't carry enough water and had to turn back—apparently these bottles were his offering. Finally we made it to Scissors Crossing, I Was nervous how my fist hitch was going to pan out. Five minutes later, we were zooming into Julian with our new friend, “Monica from Santa Monica”. Hikers in town said pie couldn't be missed; but we opted for jalapenos and sausage at Romano's instead.

Hike On?

Nobo ->

Justin Kernes 2/21/19 Justin Kernes 2/21/19

PCT Thru-Hike: Gear Review – What Worked, What Didn't, and Things I Would Change

In 2018, I thru-hiked of the Pacific Crest Trail. In this blog post I will share my thoughts and give a thorough review of the gear I used. Here’s where you can see all my PCT articles, including my daily journal and photos.

In 2018, I thru-hiked of the Pacific Crest Trail with my brother, “Shocks”. This was the first long distance hike for either of us; we learned a ton about gear, what ‘ultralight’ means, and how to make miles. In this blog I will share my thoughts and give a thorough review of the gear I used on the PCT.

Weight Distribution

Gear is probably the most frequently discussed topic other than water conditions and how many miles you plan on doing that particular day. After all, if the only things you own are on being carried on your back, you think about them constantly. Not in a materialistic way, more in a practical way. “How can I carry less? What can I cut out? How do I see more and spend less?”

After about 1,000 miles of hiking (at least for me), you'll have some sort of epiphany and realize it all comes down to the level of comfort you're willing to sacrifice in order to lighten your pack. What “misery index” can you function at? This doesn't apply to all hikers, but most people I encountered had or grew into a lightweight mentality.

With that said, here's what I carried for the majority of my time, why I carried it, and what I would change on my next thru-hike.

(Click links below to jump to a specific section.)

Big Three | Clothing | Gear | Electronics | Miscellaneous

Big Three (Pack, Shelter, Sleep)

The “Big Three”, as they are commonly referred to, are the main items all hikers need. You have to carry your gear. You need shelter from the elements and for sleep. You need a way to stay warm at night. These are also the items which usually cost the most.

Pack: Hyperlite Mountain Gear Southwest 3400

A good view of my backpack crossing the border from California to Oregon.

BOTTOM LINE: Absolutely great pack. Probably better options out there with some personal testing, probably some user error on my behalf. Comfortable hip belt although the shoulder straps are a little sharp and rough. I have the first model with smaller hip belt pockets and didn't find them as horrible as some people talked about. Exceptionally water-resistant. 32 ounces.

OVERVIEW: A 55-liter cuben fiber pack with a decently padded hip belt. There are two metal stays in the back to give hold and shape. Billed as “100% waterproof” it lived up to expectations, though ultimately I didn't have enough days of rain to definitively say the pack was water-tight. It held out the dense fog and mist in Washington just fine. The side pockets can each hold two SmartWater bottles and the rear external pocket seemed just barely large enough most days. It seemed like the pack was designed to carry a maximum of 35 pounds. It can carry heavier loads, which I frequently did, but I started to notice tears where the hip belt attaches to the pack. It still functions great. I purchased it during Black Friday for 15%-off, totaling $345.

STORYTIME: I made a fairly big mistake when ordering my pack. They offer a few ranges of sizes, each one has a longer hip belt and slightly larger capacity, like 2-3 liters more for a large versus small size. I thought to myself “three extra liters sounds great” and found my 30-inch waist struggling to fill out a large hip belt. Completely my error. Please stop laughing. Cinched as tight as allowed, I barely had enough waist to keep my pack on my body, not accounting for the 20 pounds I was eventually going to lose throughout. I mitigated this with three sections of my Z Lite sleep pad stuffed around my hip belt. Another 'mod' which effected overall comfort was my camera which was attached to my left arm strap.

DO AGAIN?: Hard to say. For a thru-hike; probably not. They were one of the popular packs for 2017 and 2018, but there are so many different ultralight packs on the market to choose from. Ideally, I would downsize my carrying capacity to 35-45 liters. Hyperlite makes a 2400 which looks enticing. Many hikers had a ULA Circuit, but several complained of the padded mesh back not breathing well. It’s also 40 ounces. Friend “Combo” had a MLD Burn which looks great if you plan on carrying below 25 pounds—always. I would sacrifice a little comfort in my hip belt and overall capacity for a durable pack with comfortable shoulder straps weighing between 1-1.5 pounds. Best advice: try and wear a few options before making a purchase if you can.

ONE COMPLAINT: The pack does not have load lifters/adjustments which I found to be one of the biggest downfalls. I had to pull the arm straps tighter to compensate and they weren't particularly comfortable (especially with a 2-pound camera on my clavicle). It also becomes slightly ungainly and bulgy when the rollover portion is stuffed to the max.

Shelter: Big Agnes Fly Creek HV UL2

Nothing better than doors open when there aren’t any bothersome bugs.

BOTTOM LINE: A solid, generic approach to solving one of the biggest concerns on trail: shelter. The Fly Creek has a bathtub floor, rain fly, vestibule, and two zippers. I thoroughly enjoyed my nylon home, a sanctuary from mosquitoes and things that go bump. Billed as a “three season, free standing, ultralight tent”, it lived up to the hype. Ground cloth not included, I opted for Tyvek and cut a sheet weighing 6.6 ounces. 47 ounces total.

OVERVIEW: It also requires a lot of stakes to fully set up (nine), but you can get away with three or four while still using the rain fly and have a comfortable and mostly dry night. Using all nine got tedious, but it was very stable. Once set up, I felt completely safe and comfortable inside. I don't suffer from claustrophobia at all, in fact it was quite cozy. Because I had the two-man, I could fit my pack and all other gear inside the tent which was important on potentially wet nights. The tent is durable, but ultralight fabrics aren't meant to be treated like normal gear. I coddled the door zippers constantly, pulling both sides while pinching each side of the fabric closer.

STORYTIME: From mile 0-700—'The Desert'—Adam and I shared a tent. We were both pretty convinced sharing a massive tarp (a 'tarjp-mahal' if you will) for the entire trail was the best idea. We purchased a Hyperlite Ultamid 4; a 9-by-9 cuben pyramid weighing under 1.5 pounds which sets up with hiking poles. Throughout the desert section, we set up that shelter less than a dozen times, opting to 'cowboy' under the stars most nights as most people do. The plan was to also purchase the interior bug net for the Sierra, but Adam quickly realized spending every night a foot away from each other was going to get rough. He had his Nemo Hornet 2P sent from home and I purchased the Fly Creek in Tehachapi for a delivery to Kennedy Meadows South. After the desert, mosquitoes became so persistent I couldn't imagine not having a shelter to seek refuge. Once bugs stopped becoming a pervasive issue, rain became the next threat. Don't expect any dry nights in Washington. Just because you went to bed with clear skies doesn’t mean they will hold until morning.

DO AGAIN?: I would get a Zpacks Duplex or a Mountain Laurel Designs SoloMid XL for any long distance hike. They are significantly lighter, both requiring the use of hiking poles for setup. Since I carried a hiking pole(s), it makes more sense to me to lose the weight of tent poles. However, I will continue to use my Fly Creek until it breaks. I've had great luck with Big Agnes' return policy and I'm a customer for life.

ONE COMPLAINT: The vestibule zipper was a nuisance, it constantly caught on the flap of fabric intended to keep water out.

Sleep 1: Enlightened Equipment Revelation Custom

BOTTOM LINE: If you're new to quilts, this is a stellar, affordable solution. Durable and lightweight. Plus, it makes a great blanket. One of my favorite pieces of gear. So good it will make you a mummy-to-quilt convert. 30.7 ounces.

OVERVIEW: Quilts are a great, lightweight solution for warm sleep. There's less zipper and less fabric under you than a traditional mummy bag. The Revelation has a quarter-zip at the foot, giving it the option to lay flat or zip up around your feet. A few plastic clips along the sides help keep the quilt in a general taco-shape snapped around you and/or your pad. The top has a drawcord and snap to fasten around your neck like a snug jacket. I opted for a wide, 0-degree fill, red and black color, and purchased it on Black Friday for $288.

STORYTIME: Enlightened Equipment offers a zipperless sewn-footbox option—Enigma (stock $315, 21 ounces)—which seemed to be the most popular option on trail, especially for the ounce-counters. While shopping, I saw that a heavier 0-degree fill and 6 inches of extra width was going to cost about $60 more and weigh about 10 ounces more. The trade-offs seemed worth it, and now having completed the trail, I can say it was worth it to me. Plus, my brother got the exact same thing one year prior and I couldn't argue with his logic. Down provides instant warmth, something I was unaccustomed to having camped in synthetic mummies for nearly 20 years. When I cowboyed and my quilt got a lot of condensation, I made sure to dry it out in the sun during lunch before the next night of sleep.

DO AGAIN?: A big heck-yeah. Probably won't have to buy another sleep-system for many years because of how well it held up. Currently, I sleep with it in Breckenridge, Colorado. I think a down quilt, ultralight or not, will always be in my gear arsenal.

ONE COMPLAINT: That f&%$*#% draw cord was placed in the middle of the quilt. Cinched or not, the additional cord and toggle strangle, poke, and garrote you in the middle of the night. Someone, please, move it to the side in v2.0.

Sleep 2: Therm-A-Rest Z lite Sol

“Shocks” enjoying a peaceful lunch break.

BOTTOM LINE: Reliable and very easily replaced, cost-effective, decent R-value (2.6 for the Sol), durable. Bonus: ass-pad. 14 ounces.

OVERVIEW: A closed-cell foam pad, each of the 14 sections weighs one ounce and it never pops. Oh, and you don't have to inflate it each night or deflate it each morning. You just unstrap it from your pack and unfurl it like some sort of 90's T.V. goofball showing you photos of their extended family from their wallet.

STORYTIME: I thoroughly enjoyed not having to hyperventilate each time I wanted to go to sleep (inflating a pad). I cut off three sections and carried it: as my butt-pad, extra hip belt comfort and girth, and each night I put it under my hips for extra cushion. Over time, my hips and knees struggled to find a comfortable sleep position, but usually I was so tired I fell asleep in five minutes. At $45, you could buy two and swap out halfway. Inflatable pads looked nice, but they all seemed loud, slippery, pricey, and all have the potential to pop. And don't forget inflating and deflating every day.

DO AGAIN?: I could have suffered slightly more and carried far less, or carried slightly more and probably had far more luxury. I might go inflatable in the future to save on pack volume. Plus, any extra comfort for my knees and hips would be greatly appreciated. I probably wouldn't do closed-cell next hike, but I'm certainly bringing a butt pad.

SENT HOME: I started with a Big Agnes AXL Air, boasted as a sub-10 ounce inflatable. Adam's popped on night five. I coaxed mine until Big Bear (Day 15, mile 266), at which point I switched to the Z Lite for the remainder of the hike. Heard good things about Therm-a-Rest NeoAir Xlite and Nemo Tensor, but I opted to stay cheap and not upgrade.

ONE COMPLAINT: Therm-a-Rest, please offer an option 6 inches wider. I'm skinny but I don't sleep like Dracula; keeping all my body parts on the pad was a struggle.

Clothing

Being pale, ginger, and probably Irish, I was committed/sentenced to wearing long sleeves and pants for sun protection. Applying sunscreen multiple times a day didn't seem like a probable long-term solution, and after completing the trail, I stand by my original assessment. I managed to stay fully covered for the entire trail with exception for a few days in Northern California. Oh, and if you are as pale as me, sun gloves are probably a good choice. I didn't use them but kinda wish I did.

Shirts (Hiking):

BOTTOM LINE: After four shirts, the Nike Dry-FIT lives up to it's namesake by drying quickly and fitting snugly. Durable. Bonus: comes in a flattering shade of cyan for us gingers.

STORYTIME: I started the trail in mid-2000 JCPenney 'Arizona' button down dress shirt. My thinking was, “it's gonna get destroyed, I'll just be that kooky guy with a weird shirt” which is totally acceptable in the hiking community.

At Warner Springs, California (Day 7, mile 109), and after learning what nipple chafe was due to some poorly placed embroidery, I walked into 2 Foot Adventures and got a RailRiders Sahara sun hoody. It was light—6 ounces—breathable, protective, comfortable on my nipples, and the hood alone meant I could now wear a mesh trucker hat instead of a wide brim. I never thought I would like a shirt so much. I probably appreciated it more after an entire week of struggling and sweating. This shirt lasted until Chester, California (Day 72, mile 1340). The shoulders were ripping and I was beginning to get sunburned. The only option was Dollar General which provided me a Hanes cotton T-shit. I purchased it, cut off the arms and hood from ‘Shirt 2.0’ which were still in good shape, and over the course of the next few days, sewed them onto my T-shirt. 'Shirt v3.5' was shaping up to be über trail-chic and functional.

This was not a permanent solution, nor was it meant to be, but it made me feel a lot better about hiking in the sun. Plus everything got the same shade of dirty, so no one really noticed the off-colored sleeves, not that I would have cared if they did. This fix allowed me to hike on to Ashland where I got 'Shirt v4.0'; a Nike Dry-FIT quarter-zip long-sleeve. Frankly, I wish I had started the trail in this shirt. It probably would have lasted the whole distance plus it was outright comfortable to wear. The high neck, and my now much longer hair, covered me very well allowing me to continue wearing a baseball cap. There also wasn't a whole lot of sun in Washington.

Pants (Hiking):

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1501.2/2650: I guess it’s finally time to do some laundry. | July 21, 2018. ... #pacificcresttrail #pcta #pct2018 #thruhike #hikertrash #laundrytime #500miles #dirt #prana

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BOTTOM LINE: If you prefer to cover your legs, PrAna Brion are hands down the best choice. Plus, they are made with “Stretch Zion” which means high-legging over blow-downs is a breeze. They dry quickly and are surprisingly durable.

STORYTIME: I used two pair of pants. My first pair were the Brion which lasted until Ashland, Oregon (Day 88, mile 1,717). They were a size 30-30 and I used a 1-inch webbing strap as a belt, intended more for future utility. I finished the trail in Kuhl Renegade which were purchased at REI in Ashland.

I also packed board shorts. They weighed 5 ounces and were great for laundry days and my modesty, but ultimately, I could have ditched them entirely.

On Day 35 I noted in my journal that my clothes were starting to feel big. Over the next 40 days I got fed up. There were substantial rips on the inside seams from my ankle to mid-calf, mostly just from friction. Sometimes when walking the tread on my advancing step would catch the ripped inseam of my planted foot. I never fell, but after a few exhilarating stumbles, it seemed like a recipe for disaster. Plus, I had lost so much weight, they were bunched around my waist with my aforementioned webbing strap 'belt' and were outright uncomfortable; I needed a smaller size.

For a few untimely days after Chester, California through Hat Creek Rim (read: hot and exposed), I wore the aforementioned board shorts I had been carrying since mile 0. I pulled my boot-cut hiking socks as high as they would allow, making it a few days before a small band of sunburn developed below my knee. It was time to fix my pants. At Burney Falls State Park (Day 75, mile 1,419), I sewed up the rips, thus eliminating the 'danger' aspect from my pants. I cinched my 'belt' even tighter and coaxed them/myself to Ashland. My hiking group was planning an excursion to the famed REI, which seemed like an excellent opportunity to find a new pant solution.

I entered through the hallowed doors and struggled to find suitable pants in the Men's section. After a few laps of “I love my Brion's but 30's aren't going to fit me”, the kind associate showed my to the Kid's section. Fortunately, there was one pair of Kuhl Renegade in large which fit like a dream. I paid at the front and hell-to-the-yes I used my REI credit card for more dividends. Booyah. These pants worked out just fine, but I didn't enjoy them to the same level as my Brion's. The Renegade has two additional zippered pockets on the thigh which turned out to be amazing Pop-Tart storage locations. Sewing on the inseam and gusset as well as the knees started to fray after 500 miles, but they held up solid for the remaining 935 miles.

SENT HOME: I sent my Brion's home in Ashland. After the trail, I gained some weight, gave them a thorough wash, and they still fit and look great.

Shoes: Altra Lone Peak 3.5

Altra Lone Peak 3.5, the only two pairs of shoes I used for the entire trail.

BOTTOM LINE: Large toe box for us hikers with bunions. Zero-drop, if that’s your thing. Durable, but delicate toe-guard. Gaiters seemed useful for the desert.

STORYTIME: I'm not a shoe guy. All research seemed to point to Altra. I should have purchased them well ahead of time and broken them in, but alas, I didn't. After the first 800 trail miles, I didn't have any complaints and didn't want to switch brands or styles. With their inevitable failure ahead, I ordered my second pair in Bishop, California (Day 45, mile 831), and had them delivered home for request at a later date. Ultimately, I had them sent to Sierra City, California (Day 65, mile 1,950), exactly halfway from my finish date (who knew?). The second pair were a half-size bigger and I wore them until the end; two pairs of shoes for 2,800 miles of hiking. I purchased them through a Pro-deal membership, saving me about $60 in total.

My flip-flops weren’t even comfortable, but at least they weren’t shoes.

There was a lot of shoe-talk on the trail. Frankly, it was one of the topics I got tired of almost immediately. From the desert until Kennedy Meadows (Day 36, mile 702), everyone was trying figure out what shoe worked for them. I didn't understand the hikers who went through three pair before the 1,000 mile-marker. It seemed like their thought process was too neurotic. My brother liked to sarcastically joke, “Oh, your feet hurt? You must be thru-hiking!” I saw a lot of people change footwear, most likely because of sore feet. But at what point does one blame the shoe or walking 25 miles a day? And as for ‘blowouts’, I saw a ton of shoes in hiker boxes with PLENTY of great miles still left in them. A little rip or tread that's slightly worn still works great. But then again, those hiker's joints post-trail might be in great condition because they always had a fresh foot bed.

BACKUP: At Warner Springs (Day 7, mile 109), I purchased a $2 pair of shower sandals. They were useful for long lunch breaks where I wanted to air my feet out. They weren’t a complete necessity and I probably could have ditched them, but they came in handy on a frequent basis. I had space, so I kept them.

Jacket: Montbell Superior Down Parka

Wearing every single layer on top of Mount Whitney, California.

BOTTOM LINE: Exceptionally warm for sitting around camp, waiting for water to boil, and lunches in the shade. A hood was a necessity. 8.7 ounces.

STORYTIME: After months of searching for a Mountain Hardwear Ghost Whisperer and never finding it below $180, I decided to look elsewhere. I checked the outlet at Montbell and found the parka for 27%-off full retail. Down is a wonderful material and it kept me warm in critical situations on more than one occasion. I slept in it on cold nights, I wore it when I did laundry. But due to the price and fact it doesn't function well wet, I continually wondered how well a fleece layer would perform. After completing the trail, I'm not entirely sure if only a down jacket is the best solution. However, it’s light and warm and packs smaller than a 16 ounce water bottle; it’s going to be a regular item in my pack for future hikes. Back in Colorado, I wear it almost daily.

Rain Gear: Montbell Versalite

BOTTOM LINE: My only piece of dedicated rain gear. Blocked out wind and kept out rain. Infrequently worn; 6.4 ounces.

STORYTIME: I also bought this from the outlet and saved 32% off full retail. The zipper is not ideal; it has a lot of resistance and is sticky, but it keeps the water out. A nice addition were pit zips which I found myself using quite a bit through Oregon and Washington. Summers in New Mexico trained me for monsoon-like conditions, but the few rain storms I experienced were very mild.

Socks: Darn Tough

I carried three pair. Not only are they great socks, their return policy is unparalleled. I've worn Wigwam, SmartWool, Stance, but Darn Tough are now my go-to brand. In Mount Shasta, California (Day 79, mile 1,501), a local gear shop was doing a trade-in. I gave them my ripped pair in exchange for a fresh pair. Most hikers carried two pair. At good stream opportunities I would wash the dirtiest pair(s), weather dependent, which then became my hiking pair for the next day. The cleanest pair among the three were kept for sleeping. A lot of hikers chose lengths below mid-shin. I favored the longer boot cut variety.

Underwear: Exofficio Give-N-Go boxer-briefs

I carried two pair. They used to advertise “14 days on a single pair”, but most likely ditched that slogan because of how gross it sounded. No matter to me, I've been wearing them for years and can't think of anything else better.

Going commando is not my thing. The thought of not having that critical layer for friction and sweat does not sound appealing.

Base Layer/Sleep Clothes:

A lot of hikers prefer not to sleep in clothes but I hate the sticky-factor of dirty skin. Plus, clothing helps prolong the life your sleep system.

Additionally, I didn't know how cold I would be at night. I used an old pair of synthetic leggings but splurged for a SmartWool Merino 250 wool shirt. At 9 ounces for the top alone, it kept me warm but I probably could have gotten a synthetic layer for cheaper and lighter. Doing again, I would ditch the wool layer and get a fleece.

Additional Warmth:

A beanie was important especially as a young balding man. I wore a simple fleece beanie from childhood until around mile 2,460 where I think it fell out of my pocket. RIP.

A synthetic neck gaiter or Buff was a mission-critical piece of gear. On cool, damp mornings, it was like wearing a light jacket. At night, it worked great to keep the draft out and allow me to sleep without cinching my quilt tight.

Gear

You don’t need much as a thru-hiker; everyone has their definition of necessity. But here are some gear items which rank closer to mandatory rather than optional.

BEAR CANISTER: BEAR VAULT BV500

BOTTOM LINE: A requirement for Yosemite National Park. Good lord, I hated carrying this damn thing; 41 ounces. The only bonus is you have the perfect seat for 390 miles.

STORYTIME: Make sure your bear canister fits in your backpack. In my past experience, I’ve been able to carry a canister inside, horizontally. The BV500 only fits into the Southwest 3400 vertically with plenty of free space on the sides. This was a slight setback but ultimately I found a way to pack my clothes around the canister in order to provide some padding for my back. Plus, I didn’t have much choice; there wasn’t much room left with my quilt and canister packed anyway. I used a canister from Kennedy Meadows (South) until South Lake Tahoe. Lassen Volcanic National Park is the only other required zone; I didn’t camp there.

Gossamer Gear LiteFlex Hiking Umbrella

“Shocks” getting great use out of his umbrella. It’s like holding a latte for 700 miles.

BOTTOM LINE: There isn’t any shade in the desert; bring your own. I found an umbrella to be a mission-critical piece of gear. Solid construction. 8 ounces.

STORYTIME: An umbrella seems like a laughable thing to bring on a hike. It wasn’t. Most hikers got rid of their umbrellas at Kennedy Meadows, but I chose to keep mine for the entire trail. There were a few times I was waiting for a hitch in the scorching NorCal sun, cool as a cucumber under my portable shade. I used it a few times for heavier rain in northern Washington. Carrying an umbrella all day long isn’t ideal, but it was better than being exposed.

I head a hiker after Tehatchapai say, “I don’t think I’ve ever loved anything as much as my umbrella” with total sincerity. It was one of the most relateable statements I heard all trail.

ONE COMPLAINT: The handle didn’t seem long enough. An extra 6 inches would make all the difference.

Routa Locura Yana Carbon Fiber Poles

BOTTOM LINE: Feather-light, exceptionally durable, game changer in terms of trekking poles. Pricey, but worth it. 3.75 ounces each.

OVERVIEW: A two-section twist-lock carbon fiber trekking pole, straps are extra. Adam found these suggested on a forum when looking for ways to set up our Hyperlite shelter. Initially, I was skeptical at how a lightweight pole would perform over a thru-hike. I saw many other poles with blown out tips, most are easily replaced. After 2,500 miles, my tip finally broke off. It has a Black Diamond base, eventually I'll order a replacement tip.

STORYTIME: I was constantly shocked at just how little the poles weigh. You barely notice them in your hand. Hikers asked how I liked my trekking pole and I just smiled and handed it to them. Looks of incredulity and amazement always followed. It feels like a magic wand from Ollivanders. Because they were so lightweight, when I began to trip I could easily plunge one in front of me to keep from falling. Sadly though, on Day 2, I lost one due to poor placement on the outside of my pack (one hand for an umbrella). I finished the rest of the trail with my one remaining pole. #onepolepatrol

ONE COMPLAINT: The only downside to a pole this light was...how lightweight it was. Small shrubs and roots easily caught and snagged my pole in-stride which made it hard to plant firmly. It may sound trite, but imagine your walking stick not making contact with the ground every dozen steps. It gets annoying. The foam handle should extrude over the webbing between your thumb and index finger, like ski poles, for enhanced grip.

Water System: Katadyn BeFree and Hydrapak Seeker 3L

BOTTOM LINE: Great squeeze filter but short lifespan. Amazing and effortless flow-rate when it’s new, then slows to a crawl. Will save your life, but you’re probably going to die from squeezing before you get a full cup to drink. 4.2 ounces total.

STORYTIME: For the entire trail I used a Katadyn BeFree, three for that matter. Filtering performance is great for the first 30-50 liters, and then 50-100 becomes a patient wait. After that, the filter is very slow and irritating to use. I had to squeeze my Hydrapak for such a long time. I think my flow rate was 6-7 minutes per liter. Adam and I shared one on and off through the desert. At the beginning of the Sierra I neglected to sleep with mine and awoke to it covered in frost. I didn't want to take any chances with it’s efficacy. Adam graciously shared his with me until Bishop, California, where I purchased a second filter. It lasted, or rather I put up with it, until Ashland, Oregon, where I purchased my third filter. I finished the trail with that filter and it was slow going for the last 400 miles.

Shovel: Deuce of Spades

How can you resist? It has a bitchin' name and weighs 0.6 ounces. My LNT instructor had moded his handle with a small piece of leather. I used mine just fine, but the handle can be quite sharp when digging into hard and rocky soil. Ultralight Hack: ditch your spoon; the shovel is a great multi-tasker!

Electronics

Getting to disconnect is one of the best things about long distance hiking. But then again you’re probably going to have to carry some electronics, a phone at the least. But how you choose to use it is up to you.

Power: Anker 20000mAh QC3 compatible AC to USB power bank

BOTTOM LINE: Having quick-charge (QC3.0) was completely worth it. Many times I would spend half a day in town and leave the pack to charge. It was intended for two people to share; 13 ounces.

STORYTIME: Adam soon realized we needed our own so I kept it and he bought a smaller 10000mAh option. I didn’t want to spend $40 to lose six ounces, even though that was probably one of the cheapest ways to lose weight. However, this meant I could listen to podcasts with impunity. And sometimes when I didn’t feel like finding my flashlight, I used my phone’s light. And sometimes when I really didn’t want to know how far I hiked but I checked anyway, I had plenty of juice left until the next recharge point.

Flashlight: Petzl AKTIK Core Headlamp

BOTTOM LINE: A no-nonsense solution for having light where there isn’t any. It has firm angle delineations, is USB rechargeable, and has a red setting. Weighs 2.9 ounces.

STORYTIME: My only complaint was the price; $65. There are a lot of other solutions out there, don't get lost and overwhelmed reading Reddit. From a practical standpoint, I didn't use my headlamp all too frequently. Night hiking isn't really my thing; only one night (LA aqueduct) did I hike until 11:00 P.M. Mostly, I used it to cook at night and pack up during pre-dawn. I used the red light more than the white. If I were to do again, I would find a light with a higher red output. I was able to charge the headlamp from my battery pack.

Device: iPhone 7+

BOTTOM LINE: Lightning connector only. Way too big. And the lack of a g@#$!&@ headphone jack meant a lot of struggling to find appropriate earbuds. Decent pictures, 2-3 day battery life depending on how much screen time and GPS I used. Phone and case weigh 9.8 ounces.

STORYTIME: You’re probably going to want a phone for your trail experience. Using paper maps and reading water reports can be fun and challenging, but if you’re reading this review, that’s probably not your speed. A device to use apps like Guthook or Halfmile are a borderline necessity. I bought a lightly used iPhone 7+ from a third-party marketplace and slapped on an Otterbox case. I also went through three pair of earbuds and three Lightning-to-3.5mm adapters.

Camera: Canon Rebel Sl2

BOTTOM LINE: Great image quality in a reasonably sized body. Body, lens, mount, batteries, and charger weighed 29.5 ounces total.

OVERVIEW: To photograph my trail experience, I chose to use an APS-C DSLR. At the time of writing, Canon’s SL2 is the second-lightest DLSR on the market. I used an 18-55mm f/4-5.6 IS STM Lens for the entire time, even though I brought a 50mm f/1.8 and a 10-18

I mounted the camera to my left shoulder strap with a Peak Designs Capture 3.0 for easy access. I used two batteries, one third-party, and charged them with an OAproda Slim USB charger. I also bought an UltraPod III tripod, but found out it wasn’t entirely useful for the type of shooting I was doing. It got sent home in Kennedy Meadows.

Miscellaneous

And here’s the few other notable things in my pack. These don’t count as necessity but I’m very glad I brought them.

Sunglasses:

Well, these are a necessity. As a photographer I'm spoiled and accustomed to great optics and glass. Having owned only one pair of prescription sunglasses, I decided to splurge on a new pair. Readers might get a sour taste in their mouth but I spent a disgusting amount of money on a pair of Julbo mountaineering style glasses. Most of that money went into custom mirrored prescription lenses from Revant. Although pricey, their service and product is sublime and worth every cent. With less than a two-week window, they rushed my order for delivery the day before I left. In total, I spent $350, $250 of that was for the custom prescription. I can confidently say this was a great choice.

Let me be clear; $20 can buy you a great pair of sunny's, which if taken care of, should last the entire trail.

Pillow:

Plenty of opinions out there as to if a pillow is worth it. This hiker says abso-freaking-lutely yes. I used the Nemo Fillo Elite which weighs 2.9 ounces.

It's relatively quiet and has a soft liner on the outside. One downside is it skids around at night if you are an active sleeper. I folded up my pants and shirt and put it under my pillow for added comfort.

Stuff Sacks:

I used two brands of ditty bags to keep various bits and bobs together in my pack. For my clothes, I used a Sea to Summit Ultra-Sil 4 liter. This barely held my board shorts, thermal top and bottom, two pairs of socks, undies, and a bandanna.

I also had Yama Mountain Gear dyneema bags. This was part of a DIY kit which Adam purchased. It made several little bags; I had three sizes. I used them for my toiletries, electronics, and wallet respectively.

Journal:

To journal all my thoughts in the evening, I used two Rite in the Rain top-spiral notebooks. The 4-by-6-inch size was a little small. Doing again, I would get a larger size.

Writing was the best medium for recording my memories. Typing into my phone worked, but it wasn’t the most productive. I typed random thoughts into the Notes application while I hiked.

Final Thoughts

Invest in good gear and it’ll take care of you; treat it well and it will last a long time. Almost everything I bought could be used for another thru-hike. From the above list, I only destroyed two pairs of shoes, three water filters, and two-ish shirts (frankly, I made one of them better), and my pack is well-loved.

Remember, gear isn’t everything. And you’re probably carrying too much.

Justin Kernes 2/18/19 Justin Kernes 2/18/19

PCT Thru-Hike: By the Numbers – Time, Cost, and Tuna Packets

In 2018, I thru-hiked the Pacific Crest Trail. Here are the stats, the aftermath, the by-the-numbers account of my time on trail.

In 2018, I thru-hiked the Pacific Crest Trail with my brother, “Shocks”. I kept a fairly rigorous account of my trail experience, purchasing everything on my credit card so I could track spending. I journaled every night, noting mile number and time. Whether you’re looking to gain insight for your next hike or if you want to relive the good days spent on trail, keep reading. Here are the stats, the aftermath, the by-the-numbers account of my time on the PCT.

Trail Analysis

Here’s a by-the-numbers list of some of the quantitative aspects to my hike. I need to thank “Froggy’s” parents for two nights in a hotel in Ashland, I definitely could have gone further on my longest day, and the hitches always worked out.

Start: May 5; Campo, California.
- Base weight: 15.5 pounds
End: September 11; Manning Park, Vancouver, Canada
- Base weight: 14.8 pounds
Total Miles Hiked: 2,746
- 130 days
Total PCT Miles: 2,533 (87.4 of closure)
Reroute Miles: ~67 (designated PCT)
Skipped Miles: 31.7 (Day 11, mile 151.8 to 183.5)
Extra Miles: ~115 (side-hikes and leaving trail)
Longest Day: 35.0 miles (Day 68, mile 1216-1251)
Average Miles/Day: 21.13
Highest 3-day Avg: 31.53 mpd
Highest 7-day Avg: 29.17 mpd
Approx. Avg. Moving Speed: ~2.27 mph

Zeros: 9 (and a glorious double-zero in Cascade Locks)
Neros: 9 (less than 11 miles)
Hitches: 49
Nights in a Hotel: 5
Resupplies: 27
- Boxes Sent: 10
Longest Span Without a Real Shower: 43 days
Longest Span Without a Real Bed: 44 days
Bucket and Civilized Showers: 11
Bucket and Machine Laundry: 14
Tuna Tacos: ~56
Pairs of Shoes: 2
Katadyn BeFree Filters: 3
Fire Reroutes: 4
Photos Taken: 3,421

Resupply Stops

On average, every 4-5 days you’ll want to pick up more food; resupply. These seemed like popular options from previous years. Bolded towns are places we sent resupply boxes.

California

Julian, mile 77.3

Warner Springs, mile 109.5

Idylwild, mile 179.4

Big Bear, mile 266.1

Wrightwood, mile 369.3

Agua Dulce, mile 454.5

Tehachapi, mile 566.4

Kennedy Meadows (South), mile 702.2

Bishop, mile 788.5

Mammoth Lakes, mile 906.6

Tuolumne Meadows, mile 942.5

Kennedy Meadows (North), mile 1016.9

South Lake Tahoe, mile 1090.7

Sierra City, mile 1195.4

Chester, mile 1331.3

Burney Mountain Guest Ranch, mile 1419

Mount Shasta, mile 1501.2

Etna, mile 1599.7

Oregon

Ashland, mile 1718.7

Crater Lake, mile 1820.9

Shelter Cove, mile 1906.6

Sisters, mile 1983.7

Washington

Cascade Locks, mile 2146.6

Whites Pass, mile 2294.9

Snoqualmie, mile 2393.1

Skykomish*, mile 2464.2

box was stuck at PO, we hitched to Gold Bar and purchased food.

Stehekin, mile 2571.9

Cost Analysis

For my first thru-hike, I certainly learned a ton of lessons. After the fact, it looks like I spent well-above the average hiker. However, the following analysis should provide some clarity.

How much does it cost to hike the Pacific Crest Trail?

Where My Money Went

It cost me $5,700.

Your results will vary. Research told me to prepare $4,500, but I saved a bit more for three reasons (listed below). A year prior, I knew I was going to hike the trail, so I began saving my money. Preparing in this aspect took a full year mostly because I earn very little as a seasonal employee.

- Here's an entire blog post dedicated to planning, preparing, and problem solving for the PCT.

Three Reasons I Spent $1,775 More:

New Phone

My iPhone 5c, lovingly used since 2014, barely held a charge for an entire day in civilization. By all accounts, I was going to be listening to podcasts, taking photos, and using GPS for maps and water sources fairly regularly; it was clear I needed a new phone.

So after a week of online shopping, I bought lightly used iPhone 7+ and an Otterbox case totaling $422. Should this count towards trail or life expenses? I could have gotten another year or so out of my 5c, so I guess this was an unavoidable cost.

The phone was physically too big. It served me great, but the lack of a headphone jack was the cause of many frustrations.

Sunglasses

Mom and Dad shouldn’t take this the wrong way, but our family isn't one which purchases 'luxury items'. I'm eternally thankful I was taught the value of money. However, I spent a disgusting amount on a pair of sunglasses. Correction: superawesome-steampunk-jetpilot sunglasses complete with prescription lenses.

I went all out. My thinking was 1) good glass is always worth it (quoth the photographer) 2) my eyes are really important 3) I will exist outdoors all day, every day. So I found a style I didn't tolerate, but loved, and Adam showed me a great company for custom lens replacement. They arrived the afternoon before I left! All in all, I spent $365 on my shades. I don't regret it in the least, but that's still hard to justify to this day.

Camera

My relationship with photography is complicated, but I can confidently say it will always be in my life. I knew I needed a dedicated camera, just a phone camera wasn't going to cut the mustard.

After much level-headed research (luxury items be damned when buying cameras), I purchased a refurbished Canon SL2 and three lenses. My full kit for the trail cost $988 which is a lot. Period.

- An in-depth camera review will be posted later.

Since these items are in a gray area, they will be left out of further calculations entirely.

With that said, here's my cost breakdown for hiking the Pacific Crest Trail in 2018.

Gear Costs

Even though I had plenty of prior backpacking experience, I didn't have any gear suitable for thru-hiking. The only items I didn’t purchase were: beanie, pocket knife, buff, and legs base-layer. Most of my gear which returned home could survive another 2,000 miles or more.

Gear Cost Total: $1,879

Spent Before Trail: $1,468
- $1,775 not included due to reasons listed above.
Spent During Trail: $411
- Pair of shoes, two shirts, pants, two water filters, Z Lite, and $32 in postage mailing gear back home.
Estimation of value in surviving gear: ~$850
- Big Three, some clothes, headlamp, and power bank.
Estimation of gear 100% consumed: ~$410
- Two shoes, three water filters, two shirts, Z Lite pad.

- Here’s a comprehensive review of the gear I used on trail.

Food Costs

There are two types of food. For the majority of the time, I ate food like tuna tacos, cold-soaked Knorr sides, or tortilla mélange held together with peanut butter; trail food. And while you eat that food and hike all day, you’ll constantly dream about the second type; town food. Burgers, pizza, burritos, and endless ice-cold beverages.

Food Cost Total: $1,685

Resupply Costs (trail food): $865
- Tuna, peanut butter, cookies, goldfish, Pop-Tarts, tortillas, olive oil, Chili Cheese Fritos, Crunchy Flamin’ Hot Limón Cheetos, and fruit snacks.
Meals out (town food): $700
- Coffee, burgers, brunches, buffets, burritos, ice cream, pizza, fast food, sodas, and a few beers.
Booze: ~$120

A fairly standard resupply outside Tehachapi, CA. Too many crackers, not enough candy.

(L-R) “Shocks”, “Combo”, and “Trash Bath” enjoy burgers and beer in North Kennedy Meadows, CA.

Additional Notes

I managed to keep my miscellaneous purchases to a minimum for a few reasons. Because of Adam’s great research, we avoided paying package pickup fees for most of our resupplys. Additionally, two stints of 40+ days without buying a hotel also helped. Lastly, we had a friend drop us off at the southern terminus and only needed a cheap flight from Vancouver back to California.

Additional Cost Total: $368

Even though a room at Harrah’s sounded enticing, we found a place to stealth nearby.

Phone plan: $108 (May through August)
Entertainment and fees: ~$80 (Incredibles 2, Hostel California, various campsite fees, package pickup)
Transportation: $180 (train ticket to southern terminus, flight from northern terminus)

Bonus! +$+

Huge thanks to Mom and Dad who paid postage for our 10 resupply packages. Adam and I each saved roughly $100 from their generous support.

They also visited us at three locations: Big Bear, Kennedy Meadows (South), and Cascade Locks. They offered us full support, even paying for a hotel two nights. They are true Trail Angels.

Final Thoughts

I don’t have any regrets in the slightest.

I know I spent more than the average hiker and I’m perfectly fine with it. I saved all summer. I worked my ass off in the winter. I splurged on gear which has some lasting value past burgers and beer. I avoided hotels because I knew no matter how nice they felt in the moment, I would remember my nights on trail getting chewed by mosquitoes, not nights spent under fresh sheets. I rarely said no to a huge meal in resupply towns.

“Money is like dirt; one good rain and it’ll all wash away.” - Jean ”Bubbe” Kernes

Justin Kernes at the northern terminus of the Pacific Crest Trail.

Justin Kernes is a photographer and writer who thrives in the great outdoors.

From 2010-2017, he worked in the backcountry at Philmont Scout Ranch in New Mexico.

In 2018 “Tiny Slice” successfully thru-hiked the Pacific Crest Trail.

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PCT 2018: Day 111, Goat Rocks and my 30th Birthday

Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers day 111, Goat Rocks and my 30th birthday.

PCT 2018: Days 93-95, Crater Lake to Shelter Cove

Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers days 93-95 from Crater Lake to Shelter Cove, mile 1,820-1,900.

PCT 2018: Days 76-79, Burney Falls to Mount Shasta

Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers days 76-79 from Burney Falls to Mount Shasta, mile 1,420-1,500.

PCT 2018: Day 40, Mount Whitney

Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers day 40, Mount Whitney.

PCT 2018: Days 45-49, Bishop to Mammoth Lakes

Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers days 45-49 from Bishop to Mammoth Lakes, mile 831-906.

PCT 2018: Days 1-4, Campo to Julian

Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers days 1-4 from Campo to Julian, mile 0-80.

PCT Thru-Hike: Gear Review – What Worked, What Didn't, and Things I Would Change

PCT Thru-Hike: By the Numbers – Time, Cost, and Tuna Packets

In 2018, I thru-hiked the Pacific Crest Trail. Here are the stats, the aftermath, the by-the-numbers account of my time on trail.

PCT Thru-Hike: Before – Planning, Preparing, and Problem Solving for 2,650 Miles

In 2018, I thru-hiked the Pacific Crest Trail with my brother. Before the trail, we watched dozens of YouTube videos and read countless gear reviews. In the spirit of giving back—and recording my memories for posterity—here's what we did before either of us set foot on trail.

Photoshop Tutorial: How to Edit a Portrait or Headshot Workflow

This tutorial will cover my typical post-processing workflow for a portrait or headshot using Adobe Photoshop and Bridge.

August 24, Day 112~19.5 miles [2295.5]

August 25, Day 11328.2 miles [2323.7]

August 26, Day 11423.3 miles [2347.0]

August 27, Day 11523.8 miles [2370.8]

August 28, Day 11623.4 miles [2393.2]

August 29, Day 11710.4 miles [2403.6]

August 30, Day 11824.3 miles [2427.9]

August 31, Day 11922 miles [2449.9]

September 1, Day 12017.3 miles [2464.2]

Hike On?

September 2, Day 12112.4 miles [2476.6]

September 3, Day 12223.6 miles [2500.2]

September 4, Day 12325.4 miles [2525.6]

September 5, Day 12427.2 miles [2551.8]

September 6, Day 125~21 miles [2551.8]

September 7, Day 1266.5 miles [2571.8]

Hike On?

September 8, Day 12727 miles [2598.8]

September 9, Day 12824.7 miles [2622.0]

September 10, Day 129~25.1 miles [2644.3]

September 11, Day 13016.3 miles [2652.6]

Hike On?

July 31, Day 880 miles [1717.7]

August 1, Day 8923.6 miles [1741.3]

August 2 Day 9025.9 miles [1767.2]

August 3, Day 9126.5 miles [1793.7]

August 4, Day 9228.2 miles [1820.9]

Hike On?

August 5, Day 9328.5 miles [1848.4 ]

August 6, Day 9433.8 miles [1882.2]

August 7, Day 9524.9 miles [1907.1]

Hike On?

August 12, Day 10030.6 miles [2032.9]

August 13, Day 10131.7 miles [2064.6]

August 14, Day 10232.3 miles [2096.9]

August 15, Day 10321.8 miles [2118.7]

August 16, Day 10428.1 miles [2146.8]

Hike On?

July 5, Day 6218.9 miles [1122.1]

July 6, Day 6324.5 miles [1146.6]

July 7, Day 6422.3 miles [1168.5]

July 8, Day 6526.9 miles [1195.4]

Hike On?

July 14, Day 7131.8 miles [1331.3]

July 15, Day 7211.4 miles [1340.7]

July 16, Day 7330.0 miles [1369.7]

July 17, Day 7427.1 miles [1396.8]

July 18, Day 7523.2 miles [1419.0]

Hike On?

June 14, Day 4119.2 miles [791.9]

June 15, Day 4223.8 miles [815.7]

June 16, Day 43 27.3 miles [831.0]

June 17, Day 440 miles [831.0]

Hike On?

June 23, Day 509.3 miles [915.9]

June 24, Day 5120.1 miles [936.0]

June 25, Day 5214.5 miles [942.5]

Hike On?

June 30, Day 5728.8 miles [1049.5]

July 1, Day 5820.6 miles [1070.1]

July 2, Day 5919.9 miles [1090.0]

Hike On?

May 5, Day 120.5 miles [20.5]

May 6, Day 219 miles [39.5]

May 7, Day 320 miles [59.5]

May 8, Day 420.9 miles [80.4]

Hike On?

Other Blog Topics

Weight Distribution

Big Three (Pack, Shelter, Sleep)

Pack: Hyperlite Mountain Gear Southwest 3400

Shelter: Big Agnes Fly Creek HV UL2

Sleep 1: Enlightened Equipment Revelation Custom

Sleep 2: Therm-A-Rest Z lite Sol

Clothing

Shirts (Hiking):

Pants (Hiking):

Shoes: Altra Lone Peak 3.5

Jacket: Montbell Superior Down Parka

Rain Gear: Montbell Versalite

August 24, Day 112
~19.5 miles [2295.5]

August 25, Day 113
28.2 miles [2323.7]

August 26, Day 114
23.3 miles [2347.0]

August 27, Day 115
23.8 miles [2370.8]

August 28, Day 116
23.4 miles [2393.2]

August 29, Day 117
10.4 miles [2403.6]

August 30, Day 118
24.3 miles [2427.9]

August 31, Day 119
22 miles [2449.9]

September 1, Day 120
17.3 miles [2464.2]

September 2, Day 121
12.4 miles [2476.6]

September 3, Day 122
23.6 miles [2500.2]

September 4, Day 123
25.4 miles [2525.6]

September 5, Day 124
27.2 miles [2551.8]

September 6, Day 125
~21 miles [2551.8]

September 7, Day 126
6.5 miles [2571.8]

September 8, Day 127
27 miles [2598.8]

September 9, Day 128
24.7 miles [2622.0]

September 10, Day 129
~25.1 miles [2644.3]

September 11, Day 130
16.3 miles [2652.6]

July 31, Day 88
0 miles [1717.7]

August 1, Day 89
23.6 miles [1741.3]

August 2 Day 90
25.9 miles [1767.2]

August 3, Day 91
26.5 miles [1793.7]

August 4, Day 92
28.2 miles [1820.9]

August 5, Day 93
28.5 miles [1848.4 ]

August 6, Day 94
33.8 miles [1882.2]

August 7, Day 95
24.9 miles [1907.1]

August 12, Day 100
30.6 miles [2032.9]

August 13, Day 101
31.7 miles [2064.6]

August 14, Day 102
32.3 miles [2096.9]

August 15, Day 103
21.8 miles [2118.7]

August 16, Day 104
28.1 miles [2146.8]

July 5, Day 62
18.9 miles [1122.1]

July 6, Day 63
24.5 miles [1146.6]

July 7, Day 64
22.3 miles [1168.5]

July 8, Day 65
26.9 miles [1195.4]

July 14, Day 71
31.8 miles [1331.3]

July 15, Day 72
11.4 miles [1340.7]

July 16, Day 73
30.0 miles [1369.7]

July 17, Day 74
27.1 miles [1396.8]

July 18, Day 75
23.2 miles [1419.0]

June 14, Day 41
19.2 miles [791.9]

June 15, Day 42
23.8 miles [815.7]

June 16, Day 43
27.3 miles [831.0]

June 17, Day 44
0 miles [831.0]

June 23, Day 50
9.3 miles [915.9]

June 24, Day 51
20.1 miles [936.0]

June 25, Day 52
14.5 miles [942.5]

June 30, Day 57
28.8 miles [1049.5]

July 1, Day 58
20.6 miles [1070.1]

July 2, Day 59
19.9 miles [1090.0]

May 5, Day 1
20.5 miles [20.5]

May 6, Day 2
19 miles [39.5]

May 7, Day 3
20 miles [59.5]

May 8, Day 4
20.9 miles [80.4]

Device: iPhone 7+