PCT 2018: Days 41-44, Mount Whitney to Bishop
Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers days 41-44 from Mount Whitney to Bishop, mile 766-831.
June 14, Day 41
19.2 miles [791.9]
Frost on my bag once again, another cold start. Still a little bummed out and attempted to wake and bake my woes away. Definitely harbored some anxiety about today’s terrain and what it would bring but I quickly got enamored in the grandeur of the Sierra. In the first few miles I forded Tyndall Creek rather than take the time to find an ideal rock-hop-spot which resulted in soaked shoes ending in torn blisters. Slopping around in slushy snow didn’t help either. I have to remember to keep my shoes dry. We got to the final approach and looked up at the remaining 700 feet of gain while filtering water. It looked like Forester Pass was going to fall into space. A nearly vertical wall of snow was clearly visible from the bottom—the most highly anticipated and fear-mongered location so far. People had asked “are you going to bring microspikes? Where’s your ice axe?” There I was, time to cross the bridge, a phrase I’ve come to love. Intimidation abated with each step taken closer to the saddle. I glided across the snow-covered section with ease. Another hiker who had been tailing us the entire way up had halted before the snow. From 200 feet away, it was easy to tell he wasn’t a happy camper. “You got this”, I yelled over the chasm, “it’s way better than it looks!” He nodded, flashing a thumbs up, then took cautious steps all the way across. We saw him at the top, beaming. After a snack break we glissaded down the backside and continued to Glen Pass; it kicked my ass. Low food with a rationing mentality lead to me bonking. I was whopped, Adam was light years ahead of me. Two passes in a day is ridiculous. The thought of food kept me moving—50 miles to Bishop.
Forester Pass approach, mile 779.3.
Forester Pass and the Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Parks boundary, mile 779.5.
A hiker glissades down Forester Pass.
Northern side of Forester Pass, mile 780.
University Peak, mile 783.
June 15, Day 42
23.8 miles [815.7]
Warm sleep for having camped above 11,000 feet. Got up and out with intention because it’s hard to lie on my back with how tender my heels are—I can feel my heartbeat throbbing in my feet. Nervous about how well I would do but blisters are a known quantity, it really can’t get much worse than this. Just have to keep putting one in front of the other. Only a few miles in, I took my shoes off in order to cross between Rae Lakes with certain dryness. After yesterday’s water-logged experience my new mantra is still ringing in my head: wet is worse. Drifted throughout treeline, dozens of half-frozen alpine lakes speckled the rocky terrain. Pinchot Pass wasn’t forgiving, albeit much easier than Forester and Glen. Intense beauty was all around but I found myself looking down most of the time, the sheer discomfort pulling me away. However, I must have hopped over 50 streams and at each one, with enough searching, there were enough slick rocks or creaky downed limbs for a strategic jump-and-pray, each leap followed by a gratifying mental ding of success—I felt like a video game character. During one of my searches I found a half-full bottle of olive oil bobbing in an eddy which went spectacularly with our pasta dinner. At this point my food bag is mostly bag and trash, free calories were a godsend. Pushed to the base of Mather Pass and set up camp as spumoni skies faded into starry oblivion.
Adam gives me “knucks” for getting over Pinchot Pass.
Marmota flaviventris, yellow-bellied marmot.
Sunset in Upper Basin, Mather Pass, mile 815.7.
June 16, Day 43
27.3 miles [831.0]
Heard other hikers packing and instantly craved more sleep. I stuck my head out of my vestibule and found Adam already breaking down his tent. Hustled and got up and over Mather, then began 4,000 feet of descent for the Bishop Pass trail junction. Obsessed about food to the point of fantasy. Played a mental game where I tried to imagine foods I wouldn’t eat even if offered to me right then and there (I didn’t come up with anything). It worked well at keeping my mind off my feet which are completely fucked up. Cold mornings, soggy shoes, sharp rocks and crusty socks, 25-mile days, and low calories, never have I had this many blisters. Arrived at the junction and devoured my last packet of tuna—dry. Adam and I have both done Bishop Pass many times but always the northern approach, never from the other side. It was brutal. The first three miles might have been my hardest physically. Had a few excruciating moments of wanting to “Stop”; to just not hike anymore, to sleep and get as close to death as I could, but those moments faded just as they always do. A mile before the pass, Adam threw out one of his usual outrageous suggestions. “We could always push for the parking lot”, he dryly said, both of us drenched in sweat and sucking wind, the sun already having set behind massive granite peaks. He was just as done as I was. Somehow, delirious, I agreed, adding another six miles to our day. At 10:30 p.m., broken, tired, and hungry, we arrived at windy South Lake parking lot. My resupply had two packets of Probar Bolts, a highly coveted gummy snack lovingly saved from summer camp, I had already eaten the first pack on top of Whitney, saving the final pack for a special occasion. I chewed them slowly, trying not to think too much about what I’m going to eat tomorrow.
Adam breaks down camp, mile 815.7.
Moonset over Mount Hurd.
June 17, Day 44
0 miles [831.0]
A windy night continued into the morning, I had on all my layers while waiting for a hitch. Didn’t sit long before meeting our lord and savior, weekend warrior, Thomas, who by his own account was headed home a day early since he “wasn’t feeling it”. Got dropped off at the famed bakery and I limited myself to a chocolate croissant, chocolate covered espresso beans, and a large coffee which covered a large portion of my vices. Dined al fresco and watched clean tourists before heading over to McDonald’s for the “real food”; two chicken sandwiches, a large fry, and a coke, all while refilling my podcast supply. Wandered through a few gear shops and found two things: a replacement water filter and “Trash Bath”. The three of us formulated a plan for the upcoming section while booking a room at the Hostel California. There weren’t any laundry services so I dumped out my remaining crusty packet of drink mix and a few straggling raisins from my bear can and threw in my fetid garments with a few hefty squirts of dish soap—the socks took four rounds alone. Adam pointed out that it was opening weekend for “Incredibles 2” and the dinky two-screen theater probably still had a few tickets left. We made use of the free bikes and purchased tickets before taking a quick pit stop at the grocery store for beer and munchies. Even though the theater was completely full with 8-year-olds, the movie was amazing. Stayed well past the credits, then biked back to the grocery store for a full resupply and tonight’s dinner. At the hostel, I cooked brats and onions, in a real kitchen on a real stove no less, Adam made a salad, and “Trash Bath” shared his gallon of mint chip. Feeling the vortex hard on this spectacular zero, it’s not going to be easy to leave.
Erick Schat’s chocolate croissant.
Hostel Bishop bicycle.
Hike On?
The Road Trip Day 2: Foggy Mountain Monoliths
Woke up with yesterday's cloudy skies still hanging around. The coastal air was crisp. We packed up and drove with the windows...
Yosemite National Park, California
May 8, 2015
I woke up to yesterday's cloudy skies still hanging around. The coastal air was crisp.
We packed up and drove with the windows down. Today's journey was less than 200 miles and we had a camping reservation. The goal was to head out early, take our time, and enjoy the views.
Slowly, we gained in elevation. The temperature kept dropping.
Welcome to Fish Camp.
It was cloudy and ominous all day.
Upon arrival at Mariposa Grove, we were surprised to find at least three inches of snow on the ground. Water dripped from the trees, plunking loudly on our car's roof. We each took turns peering through the sunroof watching large droplets splash on the glass.
We got out and took a walk.
It was cold!
Yesterday's overcast delight spoiled me. I hope I brought enough warm clothes for the entire trip.
Caleb Jennings enjoying the cool air at Mariposa Grove.
With temperatures hovering in the mid 30's, there was talk of finding an alternate plan. We were not prepared to camp in the snow.
The decision was to find and rent a room for the next two nights. After all, we are on a vacation.
Headed to Tunnel View via Wawona Tunnel.
After exiting the park, we found a room with a reasonable rate. Camping would have been rough; my sleeping bag is only rated to 20 degrees.
Dinner was Mountain House pasta primavera and a generous glass of whiskey. I lost two cribbage games.
Tomorrow's plan is to hike the Mist Trail.
Hey, want a ride?
Turn it around:
Stick your thumb out:
The Road Trip Day 3: 7,200 Feet of Granite
It was easy to get up this morning. I appreciated the lack of snow. A head poke outside revealed beautiful blue skies.
Yosemite National Park, California
May 9, 2015
It was easy to get up this morning. I appreciated a lack of snow. A head-poke outside revealed beautiful blue skies. What luck!
After a short drive to Happy Isles trailhead, we hopped out, laced up hiking boots, got water filled, and applied sunscreen.
Ready.
Although it was steep, we breezed past the majority of heavily panting visitors.
About 1.5 miles, 1000 feet of elevation gain, and 600 stone steps later, we arrived at the top of Vernal Fall.
We found a comfortable rock and took a water break at the top.
I snapped a quick group shot.
Switchbacks are my favorite.
However, we didn't stop for long. Nobody wanted to hike in the heat of the day. Duh.
Up, up, up.
It was a steady incline the entire way.
Caleb at Clark Point.
Four miles later, we arrived back at the parking lot. Sweaty.
With time left in the day and not wanting to hike 3,000 feet up out of the valley floor, we jumped in the car and drove all the way around to Glacier Point.
Carter locked the car and the three of us waded through the crowd, politely waiting our turn for a view from up against the railing.
View of Upper and Lower Yosemite Falls from Glacier Point.
As luck would have it, a massive cloud eclipsed Half Dome and hung around for the duration of our stay.
Half Dome was half-visible.
I felt cheated, but on the other hand, it was a unique view.
Guess I'll have to return someday soon.
No, 'Cloud's Rest' is the other mountain!
Tired and hungry, we exited the park.
Caleb suggested a quick stop at the general store for some dinner additions. Once back at our room, Carter found some tunes, and I prepped dinner.
Whiskey was poured.
I had a big bowl of vegetarian stew out on the deck and watched sunset.
Tonight is our last night in Yosemite.
Hey, want a ride?
Turn it around:
Stick your thumb out:
The Road Trip Day 4: Whiskey and Stars
I packed my things swiftly. I've improved each day; junk-wrangling is getting more efficient. Carter made a final sweep, then it was off to...
Sequoia National Park, California
May 10, 2015
Caleb watching the passing landscape morph and change.
I packed my things swiftly. I've improved each day; junk-wrangling is getting more efficient. Carter made a final sweep, then it was off to Sequoia National Park.
The 120 mile drive didn't take long. Fields of orchards and farming land slowly turned into rolling hills with massive and elegant oak trees. California: as stereotypical as it gets.
Carter purchased his obligatory bumper sticker at the visitor's center, we got our overnight camping pass, and continued driving deeper into the park.
Conditions at the trailhead were ideal; cold mountain air and warm sun. After 20 minutes of rummaging through our thoroughly packed car, I had Frankensteined together an overnight pack. The three of us were ready to set off.
Man, we are slow, sweaty, sea-level bums!
Pausing for a quick breather.
Descending into lakes Heather and Emerald while looking across the Marble Fork Canyon.
The Lakes Trail was definitely strenuous.
For five miles we climbed upward and gained about 2,000 feet of vertical. Sure, I'm no couch potato, but carrying a backpack at 9,000 feet was exhausting for this non-acclimated landlubber. I probably should eat more snacks next time.
Much to our surprise, we finally descended into Emerald Lake basin which was our camp for the evening. Nestled at the base of a sharp and angular ridgeline, we began setting up camp. Snow-capped peaks completely surrounded the many tiny lakes.
Trees in Emerald Lake basin.
We didn't see another soul.
Tonight's dinner menu: Top Ramen—chicken flavor. The warm, salty broth soothed our aching bones.
Of course, a healthy serving of whiskey was helpful too.
We scrambled to a nearby overlook to watch the sunset. Completely clear skies lead to a wonderful display of alpenglow.
Slowly, the first stars of evening began twinkling in the lavender light.
The cliché about how well our 'hotel room' is rated.
The temperature kept dropping; you could feel the dismal cold outside the tent.
Inside, I was snuggled up in my bag, warm, and happy to have a hot Nalgene cozied up to my feet. Altitude made it difficult to get to sleep despite today's workout.
Tomorrow—a day to chill.
Hey, want a ride?
Turn it around:
Stick your thumb out:
The Road Trip Day 5: Shwackin' and Chillin'
Warm sunlight streamed in through our tent. Somehow, I managed to sleep until 8 a.m. Glorious...
Sequoia National Park, California
May 11, 2015
Gotta find ways to warm up in chilly, subalpine mornings.
Warm sunlight streamed in through our tent. Somehow, I managed to sleep until 8 a.m. Glorious.
I got dressed and found a few oatmeal and fig bars for breakfast
Today's objectives:
1) Relax.
2) Get (closer) to the car.
We scoured the rocky alpine landscape in search of a great view with some hammock-able trees.
Scouting out potential chill-spots.
Carter spotted a nice ledge about a quarter mile away. He had his hammock, Caleb had his Z-rest. I planned on finding a comfortable rock in the shade.
It was a nice spot.
He's gonna regret the sunburn.
Carter busting a fat chill.
Eventually, we snapped back to reality. Tomorrow's drive is going to be long; an early start will be a necessity. We needed to pack up camp and hike back toward the car.
Hiking downhill is a lot less work.
We made great time.
There was a quaint picnic area by the parking lot which seemed closed for the winter season. It looked like a great place for an easy impromptu campsite.
Stirring the pot; you don't want crunchies stuck to the bottom.
The three of us played a few games of cribbage. It seems like I'm losing more games than winning at this rate, but I did manage a 20-point hand. There was yelling.
Dinner was Santa Fe Chicken mixed with some fresh garlic and leftover cheddar cheese we found stashed in the car cooler.
Delicious.
With an empty parking lot and no one else around, we pumped the music a little louder than usual.
Yummy, crunchy.
Bedtime came with the arrival of darkness.
No tent, it looked clear enough.
Hay bales provide more insulation than a wooden floor. Right?
I tossed and turned the whole night. It was below freezing.
My hot water bottle didn't seem to do anything.
Wolverton Picnic Area at night.
Hey, want a ride?
Turn it around:
Stick your thumb out:
The Road Trip Day 6: Badwater, Good Vibes
Holy cow, it was FREEZING. I don't know which was more of a struggle: storing my DSLR at the bottom of my sleeping bag, or...
Death Valley National Park, California
May 12, 2015
Holy cow, it was FREEZING.
I don't know which was more of a struggle: storing my DSLR at the bottom of my sleeping bag, or using two hay bales as a mattress. I got absolutely zero sleep.
Dawn was at 6:30 a.m. We hustled to pack our belongings while attempting to stay warm. Caleb had to summon a bit of courage to put on his pants—they were completely covered in frost!
We had a long drive ahead of us.
Frigid britches.
So, we started driving, stopping only for a Costco pizza in Bakersfield, California.
Through the middle of nowhere, down roads I didn't think would be healthy for any car's suspension, we drove. About six hours later we arrived at Badwater Basin, the lowest point in North America.
Finally, it was warm once again!
It's 282 feet below sea level. The sign was so tiny. Hard to imagine that much water being above my head. And all around me.
The sign in the top left says, “sea level”.
The main reason our drive took so long was to navigate around Mt. Whitney which ironically is the highest point in the contiguous US. Both extremes lie less than 100 miles from each other.
Weird.
We also made a stop at Artist's Palette.
We can't stay for very long.
A sign informed us the color in the rocks comes from oxidizing metals.
I'd visited before on a family vacation many years ago but since forgotten just how vivid the colors were.
What an alien world.
We stopped for a quick group shot before exiting the park.
Feeling artistic at Artist's Palette.
It was another 175 miles to our destination outside of Las Vegas.
Seven hours down, two to go. We continued driving.
Hey, want a ride?
Turn it around:
Stick your thumb out:
The Road Trip Day 7: Colorful Explosion
After yesterday's long haul, it felt nice to take things a little slower. A shower, an opportunity to do laundry, and a bagel with some schmear…
Zion National Park, Utah
May 13, 2015
After yesterday's long haul, it felt nice to take things a little slower.
A shower, an opportunity to do laundry, and a bagel with some schmear hit the spot. Most of the morning was spent talking with our friends who graciously let us crash for the night.
I realized this was the halfway point of our journey.
It was hard not to.
We packed up, said our see-ya-laters, and set out for the day.
Spending some quality time getting to know the Veterans Memorial Highway, also known as I-15.
Roads remained clear the entire way to Zion National Park.
For 150 miles, we meandered up I-15. Apparently, it continues all the way to Canada. Perhaps I'll drive its entirety one day.
The portion we covered was magnificent. Here's an excerpt from my journal:
Click here to view this in Google Street View.
“Succulent cottonwoods adorned wrinkled slot canyons, their crevices filled with sagebrush and rubber rabbitbrush; a colorful explosion.”
Virgin River Canyon Campground looks like a great place to spend a night or three.
Carter is on a hot streak.
We arrived in Zion, got our campsite, set up, and hopped on the shuttle for a quick tour of the canyon floor. It was a great way to get an idea of what we want to do tomorrow.
After the tour we caught another shuttle, this time to Springdale for “hors d'oeuvres and aperitifs”.
Back at camp, chili gently simmered away while we played a few more hands of cribbage and had our chips and beer.
I scavenged empty campsites for firewood. After a few trips, I collected enough unburned $16 firewood to use both nights we plan on staying. Score.
After dinner, I decided to take a walk around the campsites before it was time for bed. Carter informed us there's a 50 percent chance of thundershowers tonight through tomorrow afternoon. We are prepared but all of us are thinking dry thoughts.
Our neighbor's fire illuminated the cottonwoods in a mysterious manner.
Hopefully we don't end up hiking in the rain. I always seem to struggle at having fun in the rain.
Watchman Campground at night.
It looked clear out.
Hey, want a ride?
Turn it around:
Stick your thumb out:
The Road Trip Day 8: Where Angels Land
At 5:27 a.m., some yahoo's car alarm went off. After tossing and turning, I gave up and got dressed. It was a great excuse to get an earlier…
Zion National Park, Utah
May 14, 2015
At 5:27 a.m., some yahoo's car alarm went off.
After tossing and turning, I gave up and got dressed. It was a great excuse to get an earlier start than previously planned.
I shimmied on my clothes and hopped out of the tent. Much to my surprise, I found clear skies. The three of us assembled our day packs and filled up water bottles. Last night, we decided to climb Angels Landing, easily one of the most iconic Zion attractions. The Grotto Trailhead was only a 20-minute drive away.
At 8 a.m., in the cool of morning, we began our five mile hike.
Basically a 500 foot fall on either side with only a narrow rock path to stand on. Oh boy!
1,500 feet, up, up, up. We climbed.
I wonder how old this tree is. I wonder how many people have touched it. It must see some amazing sunrises.
I enjoyed my time up at the summit. It was just past 9 a.m. and it seemed clear we had beaten the majority of other hikers for the day. We shared the view with only four other people.
Angels Landing looking into Hidden Canyon.
It was grand.
After thoroughly enjoying the view, it was time to descend. I snapped a few more photos, applied some sunscreen, and we carefully climbed back down.
If you've done the hike, you certainly remember the chain-rope sections.
15 years ago on a family vacation, my dad and I, along with two other family friends did the same Angels Landing hike. I was stunned to find out how much I remembered from my last trip. My hometown barely looks the same, but each sharp switchback and twisting tree seems to be right were I saw it last.
Carter finds an alternate trail.
One of the 21 switchbacks on Walter's Wiggles.
Refrigerator Canyon was completely in shadow when we set off. On the way down however, the canyon floor was bathed in sunlight. It was a magnificent sight to behold.
The Great White Throne, Deertrap, Mountain of the Sun, Bridge Mountain, and The Watchman as seen from above Refrigerator Canyon.
As soon as we got back to camp, it began drizzling. Snacks, cribbage board, and Bluetooth speaker in hand, we retreated to the tents and lounged away the remainder of our afternoon.
We walked to town and searched for dinner options; no one was in the mood to cook. Nothing jumped out at anyone, so we settled on some quaint and kitsch diner which was cheap and quiet.
Back at camp, we had a small fire and passed the whiskey bottle around. We chatted until bedtime arrived.
Hey, want a ride?
Turn it around:
Stick your thumb out:
The Road Trip Day 9: Alien Landscape
I awoke at 7 a.m. sharp, rain began falling at 7:02 a.m. Packing up in a light sprinkle is rarely enjoyable, but it was something we had to do. At least…
Bryce Canyon + Capitol Reef National Parks, Utah
May 15, 2015
I awoke at 7 a.m. sharp, rain began falling at 7:02 a.m.
Packing up in a light sprinkle is rarely enjoyable, but it was something we had to do. At least we got clear skies for yesterday's hike.
Today's drive was one of the longer ones; we boogied to get camp broken down, car packed and refueled, and road snacks restocked.
We waved goodbye to Zion.
Click here to view this in Google Street View.
Light rain suddenly turned to flurries of snow. The storm we had narrowly been avoiding finally caught up to us.
Along the way we stopped at Bryce Canyon. The visitor's center was packed due to the crummy weather. We took a quick visit to the rim, but you couldn't see a single hoodoo; it was completely socked in. Carter got his sticker all the same.
A very limited and snowy view of Bryce Canyon from the Rim trail.
We pressed on.
A pretty common view along State Route 12.
Head of the Rocks Overlook, Utah.
Looks like we skirted the storm.
The scenery was sublime. State Route 12 might be my favorite road in the US—certainly top three.
We started to get ahead of the storm. Another pull-off caught our attention. “Head of the Rocks Overlook”, proclaimed a small sign. Massive, angry clouds traveled West.
We were headed East.
Caleb made a feline friend during brunch.
The Smith's family friend has a restaurant we were told could not be missed, so we skipped breakfast to save time and not spoil our appetites.
Hell's Backbone Grill had a charming rustic vibe. We looked over the menu and didn't take long. Caleb got French toast, Carter got a quesadilla, and I got shirred eggs with several cups of coffee.
It was pure heaven for our travel-addled bodies.
Quite the brunch spread at Hell's Backbone Grill.
We said our thank-yous and got back on the road once again. Capitol Reef was on our way to Moab; we couldn't resist a short stop at the visitor's center.
Carter's sticker-window is running out of real estate.
Chimney Rock and Mummy Cliff as seen from Utah State Route 24.
Tonight, we are staying at a cheap RV and campground spot in Moab. Hour after hour, our vehicular spaceship zoomed through the alien landscape.
We arrived at the River Oasis RV Park in Moab. Apparently, it has free WiFi, but I had trouble loading Google. Dinner was beef stroganoff with several additional cloves of garlic.
Tomorrow's plan is Arches.
Hey, want a ride?
Turn it around:
Stick your thumb out:
The Road Trip Day 11: Fractal Canyons
I woke up on the floor earlier than I wanted to; I neglected to close the blinds. Light streamed into our tiny room. Not long after…
Canyonlands National Park, Utah
May 17, 2015
I woke up on the floor earlier than I wanted to; I neglected to close the blinds. Light streamed into our tiny room.
Not long after, my fellow compatriots were up and moving. Our plan was to check out Canyonlands National Park and word from our mutual friends told us to visit the southern half.
Needles District Visitor Center looked like a mirage from the distance. Why was there any structure built there? For the last 75 miles, this was the only man-made thing I saw other than the highway.
The nice park ranger said we would have a hard time passing up the Slickrock Foot trail. We parked the car and hopped out.
Caleb Jennings before his morning Gatorade.
Sprawling fractal canyons as far as I could see. Where were we? When? How? We schwacked over rocks, shrubs, and cyanobacteria. Apparently they're one of the oldest things on our planet.
We got hungry for lunch and aimed for the car. Our ice chest, beginning to take on some odor, had tuna salad fixings from yesterday.
Everything wrapped in tortillas tastes great.
Click here to view this in Google Street View.
There were a few short trail loops on the way out of the park; Roadside Ruin and Cave Spring. Both lived up to their names. For nearly half a mile we walked under eroded boulders. Moss and delicate ferns sprouted from the damp, weeping rocks.
Cleome lutea, or yellow beeplant.
A typical scene at Canyonlands.
We were surrounded by the oddest of tableaux.
Parched and tired, and with snacks no longer carrying their weight, we drove back into Moab. The brewery pulled us in. Beer and gelato was just the kind of refreshing treat we needed.
Back at the hostel, we took turns showering and checking the internet. I scrolled to see if I had any emails or if there were any dumb internet videos.
There were.
We tried to keep strong and remain frugal for dinner; dehydrated didn't sound delicious. It didn't work. We ordered a chicken-pesto pizza from a local shop. And garlic knots.
Also, I think Carter is cheating at cribbage. You can only get so many 16-point hands...
Hey, want a ride?
Turn it around:
Stick your thumb out:
The Road Trip Day 12: The Magnitude of Time
I was kinda bummed to wave goodbye to the Lazy Lizard Hostel. I had a sense that other guests before me felt the same way…
Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado
May 18, 2015
I was kinda bummed to wave goodbye to the Lazy Lizard Hostel. I had a sense that other guests before me felt the same way. With the last remaining arm-load of gear, we turned in the keys to the front desk and piled in the car.
Carter's friend highly recommended a brunch stop at the Wake and Bake Cafe. I had huevos rancheros in a buckwheat crepe. Pretty decent, could have used more salsa.
Today's drive was long, we covered at least 300 miles. We planned for a long stop at Mesa Verde National Park which was on the way.
The park entrance was quite mysterious.
Slowly, we gained in altitude. At some points the road hugged an escarpment; where were we going? We saw the visitors center and things began to make sense. With requisite stickers purchased we headed down a short trail to see the Spruce Tree House.
Spruce Tree House looks like one hell of a place to throw a party.
For nearly two weeks we had been getting accustomed to stunning landscapes and gorgeous vistas throughout America's southwest. It was odd, to say the least, to find myself viewing a small collection of ruins. Dare I say I was bored?
The best part was seeing how those people set up their establishment. It looked quite secluded and safe; if I stumbled on that 1,000 years ago, I would have set up shop.
We still had a lot of ground to cover.
Mountains and clouds somewhere in Durango, Colorado.
After an unmemorable stop at Subway, we arrived at a Super 8 motel in Alamosa; a far departure from last night's homey accommodations. It had a roof and Carter's dad covered our stay, though. I have to remember to write him a thank-you card.
Finishing the whiskey was a bittersweet moment. However, pegging for a win is an unfair highlight of my entire trip.
One more day left.
Hey, want a ride?
Turn it around:
Stick your thumb out:
The Road Trip Day 13: Surge Flow
Like most hotels, I had a rough night getting used to the cantankerous air conditioning unit switching on and off. Our neighbors had a housewarming party…
Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve, Colorado
May 19, 2015
Like most hotels, I had a rough night getting used to the cantankerous air conditioning unit switching on and off. Our neighbors had a housewarming party, it seemed.
The three of us, rubbing sleep from our eyes, went to the lobby for 'continental breakfast' which had a predictably limited selection. I cobbled together a peanut butter and butter toast-sandwich with a few cups of Styrofoam coffee. Under the television blaring a morning FOX program, we quietly finalized our plans.
We arrived at the Great Sand Dunes parking lot at 8:30 a.m.; everything was freshly wet from a night of rain.
Wet sand dunes are a different experience altogether.
Just beyond the parking lot in front of the dunes, a wide, pulsating river obstructed a clear path. Nearly a football field of ankle-deep water lay between us and the dunes; a surge flow. There didn't look to be any way around but through. We took of our shoes and socks and stashed them at the bank.
The water was beyond cold. Polar plunges, dares from high school friends, the Atlantic, every cold water event I had previously paled in comparison until today. The cold water lost its novelty immediately. Only shin-deep a few steps in and I found it difficult to breathe. I can't imagine falling through an iced-over lake.
We started to walk around and the sky kept getting darker. After another 10 minutes we bailed for the car, and a moment after crossing the frigid river once more, it began to pour. I had to towel off before getting into the car.
After nearly two weeks of being on the road, we made it safely to Eagle Nest. Tom aggressively shook my hand, like always; Vicky hugged me deeply, like always; Will did both, like always. The McKinney's cabin is beyond special, it feels so good to be back here once more—I am so lucky.
Everyone took a shady seat under one of the huge Ponderosas in the front yard. We shared stories from our journey and pet the many lounging dogs.
The Road Trip may have come to an end, but the start of summer is upon us.
Tomorrow. It begins.
You can't scratch Moonlight, really. He's got so much fur, your fingers get lost or caught.
Hey, want a ride?
Turn it around:
About the Blog
Justin Kernes is a photographer and writer who thrives in the great outdoors.
From 2010-2017, he worked in the backcountry at Philmont Scout Ranch in New Mexico.
In 2018 “Tiny Slice” successfully thru-hiked the Pacific Crest Trail.
Search the Blog
Featured Posts
Photos and stories from my thru-hike of the PCT. This post covers day 111, Goat Rocks and my 30th birthday.